{"id":33110,"date":"2018-07-07T06:00:51","date_gmt":"2018-07-07T10:00:51","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/?p=33110"},"modified":"2018-07-06T07:56:03","modified_gmt":"2018-07-06T11:56:03","slug":"guest-post-sm0vpos-3d-printed-10kv-tuning-capacitor","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/2018\/07\/guest-post-sm0vpos-3d-printed-10kv-tuning-capacitor\/","title":{"rendered":"Guest Post: SM0VPO&#8217;s 3D Printed 10KV Tuning Capacitor"},"content":{"rendered":"<div id=\"attachment_32490\" style=\"width: 490px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/05\/20m_ant_05.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-32490\" class=\"size-full wp-image-32490\" src=\"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/05\/20m_ant_05.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"480\" height=\"853\" srcset=\"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/05\/20m_ant_05.jpg 480w, https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/05\/20m_ant_05-169x300.jpg 169w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 480px) 100vw, 480px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-32490\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The completed antenna.<\/p><\/div>\n<p><em><strong>Many thanks to SWLing Post contributor,<a href=\"http:\/\/www.sm0vpo.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Harry Lythall (SM0VPO<\/a>), who shares the following update to his excellent\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/2018\/05\/how-to-build-sm0vpos-20-meter-magnetic-loop-antenna\/\">homebrew 20 meter magnetic loop antenna post:<\/a><\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<h1>3D Printed 10KV Tuning Capacitor<\/h1>\n<p style=\"text-align: right;\"><strong>by\u00a0Harry Lythall (SM0VPO)<\/strong><\/p>\n<h2>Introduction<\/h2>\n<p>You may have seen my <a href=\"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/2018\/05\/how-to-build-sm0vpos-20-meter-magnetic-loop-antenna\/\">20m (14MHz) loop, or frame, antenna,<\/a> and the ease of construction with just a bit of wire and a bit of plastic tube. The tuning arrangement is a little primitive, using just a &#8220;gimmick capacitor&#8221;, comprising two bits of wire twisted together.<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 710px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Gimmik-Capacitor-e1530875697376.jpeg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"wp-image-33111 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Gimmik-Capacitor-e1530875697376.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"700\" height=\"354\" \/><\/a><p class=\"wp-caption-text\">The original &#8220;Gimmick&#8221; capacitor that burns.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>This arrangement works very well for QRP, where the average RF power is about 5 Watts or less. If you exceed this power level, then the twisted-wire capacitor tends to warm up and the tuning drifts a little. But if you use more than about 10 Watts of continuous RF power, then things start to burn. Cheap insulated wire also smokes. This is because the impedance at the ends of the coil is so high that you can get many 100s of volts and the insulation, normally intended for house wiring, breaks down.<\/p>\n<p>In this page I will show you how to build a super-cheap tuning capacitor that will tolerate up to 10,000 Volts of RF and allow you to use up to about 100 Watts of RF into my 14MHz (20m) antenna. The capacitor is also tunable so that you can adjust it by hand (when the RF is removed, of course :-). The tuning range is about 8pf to well over 30pf when really compressed. The normal range for the antenna is about 12pf to 15pf.<\/p>\n<h2>Construction<\/h2>\n<p>My prototype does not look very pretty, and it is not supported on anything other than the connection wires from the antenna. Very few components are used:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>two plastic foam pan scrubbers or one thick plastic bath sponge<\/li>\n<li>two pieces of metal 4cm x 6cm. Copper-clad board works fine<\/li>\n<li>one plastic nut and bolt &#8211; see text<\/li>\n<li>one heavy-duty 3-pole block connector with centre-pole removed<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<div id=\"attachment_33112\" style=\"width: 703px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Components.jpeg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-33112\" class=\"size-full wp-image-33112\" src=\"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Components.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"693\" height=\"480\" srcset=\"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Components.jpeg 693w, https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Components-300x208.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Components-624x432.jpeg 624w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 693px) 100vw, 693px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-33112\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Components for the 10KV tuning capacitor<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The plastic nut and bolt need to be about 6cm long and totally non-conductive. If you want to make my bolt, then do NOT use black plastic because some black plastics use carbon as a colouring agent. You can use a nylon bolt, as used to secure IKEA toilet seats, but you will also need a washer to spread the stress, otherwise the copper-clad board tends to bend under the stress with time. I chose copper-clad board because it is easy to solder &#8211; no need for drilling or connection bolts. I made my plastic compression tuning bolt using my 3D printer. I have included the project files for you to download.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_33113\" style=\"width: 697px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Ikea-toilet-seat-bolt.jpeg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-33113\" class=\"size-full wp-image-33113\" src=\"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Ikea-toilet-seat-bolt.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"687\" height=\"324\" srcset=\"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Ikea-toilet-seat-bolt.jpeg 687w, https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Ikea-toilet-seat-bolt-300x141.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Ikea-toilet-seat-bolt-624x294.jpeg 624w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 687px) 100vw, 687px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-33113\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ikea toilet-seat bolt<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Note that the connector for the wires needs to be well spaced between the metal inserts, in order to tolerate up to 10KV, so I used a 3-pole connector and took out the centre pole. At 100-Watts continuous there is a very slight warming after a few minutes, but no sign of smoke, sparks or corona. \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_33114\" style=\"width: 736px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/detail.jpeg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-33114\" class=\"size-full wp-image-33114\" src=\"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/detail.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"726\" height=\"490\" srcset=\"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/detail.jpeg 726w, https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/detail-300x202.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/detail-624x421.jpeg 624w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 726px) 100vw, 726px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-33114\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The connector with the centre-pole removed.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>I tried a few different types of plastic dielectric and all worked well, providing they are 100% dry. The best ones those I stole from the kitchen cupboard (when Maj-Lis was not watching). I think it costs about $1.50 for a packet of 10 pieces. Perhaps I should have used a nicer colour? A pretty pink? Heart-shaped? No! maybe that would be going a bit too to far ;-). Here is my finished capacitor using my 3D printed tuning screw.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_33115\" style=\"width: 484px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/capacitor.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-33115\" class=\"size-full wp-image-33115\" src=\"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/capacitor.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"474\" height=\"713\" srcset=\"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/capacitor.jpg 474w, https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/capacitor-199x300.jpg 199w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 474px) 100vw, 474px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-33115\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">The assembled 10KV capacitor.<\/p><\/div>\n<h2>3D Files<\/h2>\n<p>Once more, this project is ridiculously easy to make with a 3D printer. The hardest part was to get the pitch of the threads right, then clone\/connect the pieces to get a longer thread. They were printed with the bolt vertical, so the slope under each thread is a steeper angle than the upper slope. This makes the printout a lot easier to print. If the angle is too steep, then it may extrude PLA into mid-air. My nut and bolt heads are about 3cm Diameter, and the 10mm thread for the nut was cut using boolean subtraction. I then enlarged the nut by about 3% so it still fits but there is a little slack so that it does not bind. I may have overdone it a little, but not much.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_33116\" style=\"width: 863px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Rendered-File.jpeg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-33116\" class=\"size-full wp-image-33116\" src=\"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Rendered-File.jpeg\" alt=\"\" width=\"853\" height=\"636\" srcset=\"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Rendered-File.jpeg 853w, https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Rendered-File-300x224.jpeg 300w, https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Rendered-File-768x573.jpeg 768w, https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/07\/Rendered-File-624x465.jpeg 624w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 853px) 100vw, 853px\" \/><\/a><p id=\"caption-attachment-33116\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Project rendered in 3D Studio Max<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Here are the files:<br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/213.114.131.21\/3d\/3d-cap-01.max\">3D studio MAX file<\/a>\u00a0&#8211;\u00a0<span style=\"font-family: courier;\">3d-cap-01.max<\/span><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/213.114.131.21\/3d\/3d-cap-01.stl\">ASCII STL file<\/a>\u00a0&#8211;\u00a0<span style=\"font-family: courier;\">3d-cap-01.stl<\/span><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/213.114.131.21\/3d\/3d-cap-01.obj\">ASCII OBJ file<\/a>\u00a0&#8211;\u00a0<span style=\"font-family: courier;\">3d-cap-01.obj<\/span><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/213.114.131.21\/3d\/3d-cap-01.gcode\">the GCODE file for my Wanhao (Prusa) Duplicator i3<\/a>\u00a0&#8211;\u00a0<span style=\"font-family: courier;\">3d-cap-01.gcode<\/span><\/p>\n<p>Just right-click on the file and select &#8220;save as&#8221;. Some web browsers try to open ASCII files instead of saving them. I usually export STL files, but on this occasion, I tried comparing OBJ files since CURA slicer will accept both. Although I use a WANHAO replica of the PRUSA Duplicator i3 printer, the GCODE files are rather generic and will probably work on most printers.<\/p>\n<p>My printer settings in this GCODE are:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Nozzle temperature = 200\u00b0C<\/li>\n<li>Bed temperature = 60\u00b0C<\/li>\n<li>Support structure = brim<\/li>\n<li>Layer height = 0.1mm<\/li>\n<li>Print speed = 60mm\/s<\/li>\n<li>Fill density = 40%<\/li>\n<li>Shell thickness = 1.2mm<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>The printer temperature is 200\u00b0C, which is 5\u00b0C hotter than recommended for PLA filament. I find that I get a better print at 200\u00b0C as it sticks to the bed a lot easier. When printing this screw thread, it may be advisable to start at 200\u00b0C and then turn down the nozzle temperature to 195\u00b0C after a few layers have been printed.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p>I hope that you find this project interesting. It is a bit small, but it gets me active on 14MHz from my car with this portable antenna. I have a new car and I don&#8217;t want to start throwing long aluminium tubes in it that scratch the interior to bits.<\/p>\n<p>Don&#8217;t forget to visit my\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/213.114.131.21\/board.htm\" target=\"fake\">messageboard<\/a>\u00a0if you have any questions about this or any other project. I always look forward to receiving feedback, positive or negative ?<\/p>\n<p>Very best regards from Harry Lythall<br \/>\nSM0VPO (QRA = JO89WO), M\u00e4rsta, Sweden.<br \/>\nEA\/SM0VPO (QRA = IM86BS), Nerja, Spain.<\/p>\n<hr \/>\n<p><em><strong>Thank you so much for sharing this, Harry! I love both the frugality and ingenuity in this unique capacitor design!<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<p><em><strong>Post Readers:<\/strong>\u00a0be sure to check out\u00a0<strong><a href=\"http:\/\/www.sm0vpo.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Harry\u2019s website<\/a><\/strong>\u00a0which is loaded with radio projects of all stripes. You\u2019ll easily spend a few hours digging through his tutorials and downloads.\u00a0Harry also maintains\u00a0<a href=\"http:\/\/sm0vpo.altervista.org\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">an alternate mirror server located here<\/a>.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Many thanks to SWLing Post contributor,Harry Lythall (SM0VPO), who shares the following update to his excellent\u00a0homebrew 20 meter magnetic loop antenna post: 3D Printed 10KV Tuning Capacitor by\u00a0Harry Lythall (SM0VPO) Introduction You may have seen my 20m (14MHz) loop, or frame, antenna, and the ease of construction with just a bit of wire and a [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":15,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[8,3194,545,627,3,43],"tags":[7072,1643,4102,7074,4359,7142,7073,4357,3417],"class_list":["post-33110","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-articles","category-guest-posts","category-ham-radio","category-how-to","category-news","category-shortwave-radio","tag-20-meter-magnetic-loop-antenna","tag-antennas","tag-ham-radio","tag-harry-lythall-sm0vpo","tag-homebrew-mag-loop-antenna","tag-homebrew-tuning-capacitor","tag-how-to-build-a-magnetic-loop-antenna","tag-mag-loop-antennas","tag-magnetic-loop-antennas"],"jetpack_publicize_connections":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"","jetpack_shortlink":"https:\/\/wp.me\/pn3uc-8C2","jetpack-related-posts":[{"id":32482,"url":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/2018\/05\/how-to-build-sm0vpos-20-meter-magnetic-loop-antenna\/","url_meta":{"origin":33110,"position":0},"title":"How to build SM0VPO&#8217;s 20 meter magnetic loop antenna","author":"Thomas","date":"May 30, 2018","format":false,"excerpt":"A few days ago, SWLing Post contributor, Robert Gulley (AK3Q), pointed me to an excellent website by Harry Lythall (SM0VPO) which is chock-full of various homebrew radio projects. In particular, we both were impressed with Harry's 20 Meter Loop Antenna--it's such a simple project and requires no special order components.\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Antennas&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Antennas","link":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/category\/antennas\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/05\/20m_ant_05.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200},"classes":[]},{"id":36661,"url":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/2019\/03\/building-a-20-meter-self-tuning-magnetic-loop-antenna\/","url_meta":{"origin":33110,"position":1},"title":"Building a 20 meter self-tuning magnetic loop antenna","author":"Thomas","date":"March 22, 2019","format":false,"excerpt":"I'm often asked about what's involved with building a home brew magnetic loop antenna. If you're considering building a passive loop antenna--one designed to both transmit and receive without any sort of receiver amplification--it's a simple project. With basic DIY skills, a little math, a good variable capacitor, some copper\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Antennas&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Antennas","link":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/category\/antennas\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"Magnetic Mag Loop Antenna Eric Sorensen","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Screen-Shot-2019-03-22-at-6.40.15-AM.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Screen-Shot-2019-03-22-at-6.40.15-AM.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Screen-Shot-2019-03-22-at-6.40.15-AM.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/Screen-Shot-2019-03-22-at-6.40.15-AM.jpg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":31920,"url":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/2018\/05\/bill-scores-a-homebrew-lw-mw-magnetic-loop-antenna\/","url_meta":{"origin":33110,"position":2},"title":"Bill scores a homebrew LW\/MW magnetic loop antenna","author":"Thomas","date":"May 7, 2018","format":false,"excerpt":"Many thanks to SWLing Post contributor, Bill Hemphill (WD9EQD) who shares the following: I went to the Warminster Amateur Radio Club (WARC) hamfest [yesterday] in Bucks County, PA. For some time, I have been thinking about making a loop antenna for AM DXing. It was my lucky day. When I\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;AM&quot;","block_context":{"text":"AM","link":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/category\/am\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/05\/Mag-Loop-Antenna-Homebrew-1-777x1024.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/05\/Mag-Loop-Antenna-Homebrew-1-777x1024.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/05\/Mag-Loop-Antenna-Homebrew-1-777x1024.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x"},"classes":[]},{"id":50098,"url":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/2021\/08\/wire-antennas-vs-mag-loop-antennas\/","url_meta":{"origin":33110,"position":3},"title":"Wire antennas vs. mag loop antennas","author":"Thomas","date":"August 29, 2021","format":false,"excerpt":"In the past few weeks, I've gotten a lot of questions from readers who are trying to decide if they should install a magnetic loop antenna or a simple wire antenna at their home. Obviously, most of the questions come from shortwave radio listeners, but some have come from ham\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Antennas&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Antennas","link":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/category\/antennas\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/06\/Elecraft-KX3.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/06\/Elecraft-KX3.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/06\/Elecraft-KX3.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x"},"classes":[]},{"id":52232,"url":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/2022\/03\/giuseppes-crossed-loop-and-the-variabilone\/","url_meta":{"origin":33110,"position":4},"title":"Giuseppe&#8217;s Crossed Loop and the &#8220;VariabilOne&#8221;","author":"Thomas","date":"March 20, 2022","format":false,"excerpt":"Many thanks to SWLing Post contributor, Giuseppe Morl\u00e8 (IZ0GZW), who shares the following: Dear Thomas and all friends of SWLing Post, I'm Giuseppe Morl\u00e8 iz0gzw from central Italy on the Tyrrhenian Sea, Formia. A few days ago at a fair for radio amateurs in Latina, I bought an excellent very\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;How To&quot;","block_context":{"text":"How To","link":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/category\/how-to\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/Giuseppe-Antenna-Capacitor-1.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/Giuseppe-Antenna-Capacitor-1.jpeg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/Giuseppe-Antenna-Capacitor-1.jpeg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/03\/Giuseppe-Antenna-Capacitor-1.jpeg?resize=700%2C400&ssl=1 2x"},"classes":[]},{"id":28543,"url":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/2017\/09\/larrys-variation-of-the-w6lvp-amplified-magnetic-loop-antenna\/","url_meta":{"origin":33110,"position":5},"title":"Larry&#8217;s variation of the W6LVP amplified magnetic loop antenna","author":"Thomas","date":"September 28, 2017","format":false,"excerpt":"Many thanks to SWLing Post contributor,\u00a0Larry Thompson (WPE8EKM), who writes: I\u2019ve just finished building a variation of the W6LVP amplified magnetic loop antenna. I was able to purchase the preamplifier, power inserter, and the power supply separately. I then created my own loop antenna using LMR400Max coax and designed my\u2026","rel":"","context":"In &quot;Antennas&quot;","block_context":{"text":"Antennas","link":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/category\/antennas\/"},"img":{"alt_text":"","src":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Loop-Antenna.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1","width":350,"height":200,"srcset":"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Loop-Antenna.jpg?resize=350%2C200&ssl=1 1x, https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/09\/Loop-Antenna.jpg?resize=525%2C300&ssl=1 1.5x"},"classes":[]}],"jetpack_sharing_enabled":true,"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/33110","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/15"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=33110"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/33110\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=33110"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=33110"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/swling.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=33110"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}