Category Archives: How To

Dave unveils the Sproutie MK II regenerative receiver

SproutieMKII

My talented pal, Dave Richards, has built yet another home-brew regenerative receiver––which he dubs the Sproutie MK II––and wow, it’s a thing of beauty.

Dave tells me has been working on this receiver for many months, and upon viewing the following photos of it, it’s clear to see why he took his sweet time. As in his original Sproutie, a vintage HRO dial has taken pride of place as the centerpiece of his rig; it looks stunning.

But the Sproutie MK II is not only painstakingly-crafted on the outside; like Shaker furnishings, wrought for the eyes of God both outwardly and within, the interior of Dave’s receiver is equally well-crafted.

Okay, maybe that’s a little over the top…but if you doubt me, just join me in admiration of this board:

SproutieMKII-board

As for performance?  Of course, with such a clean interior, the Sproutie II performs like a champ.  Dave posted a few videos showing how his new receiver commands the airwaves and aptly handles AM, SSB, and CW.

That’s an amazing piece of kit you’ve created there, Dave!  Hats off to your incredible craftsmanship.

Check out Sproutie II on Dave’s blog, where you can read a full account of how he designed and built this gorgeous regen receiver.

A very simple mod for your PowerMate controller

My Powermate USB sporting a white rubber band grip.

My Powermate USB sporting a white rubber band grip.

After publishing the post about my PowerMate USB controller, Mike Ladd replied on Facebook:

“Do what I did a couple of years ago and add a lobster claw rubber band to the [PowerMate] tuning wheel.”

In case you’re not familiar, Mike is referring to the thick, wide rubber bands that are placed on lobster claws to hold them shut. Mike included the following video; you can see that the rubber band fits perfectly around the top of the tuning knob, giving it a little extra grip.

This same type of rubber band can often be found in the produce department of grocery stores as it’s used to hold bunches of broccoli, asparagus and other produce together.

Many thanks for the tip, Mike!

Using synchronous detection and notch filter to eliminate het noise

WinRadioExcalibur-VOG-Notch

The lighter shaded side of the AM carrier indicates a lower sideband sync lock. (Click to enlarge)

A few days ago, I tuned to 9,420 kHz and found a relatively strong signal from the Avlis transmitter site of the Voice of Greece. The broadcast was quite clear until a heterodyne (het) tone popped up out of nowhere.

I checked the spectrum display of my Excalibur to find two steady carriers located about .5 kHz off each side of VOG’s AM carrier. I assume this may have been a faint digital signal centered on the same frequency as VOG.

The noise was annoying, but SDRs (and many tabletop radios) have tools to help mitigate this type of noise.

The het tone was originating from both sidebands of the VOG AM carrier (see spectrum display above). I had planned to use my notch filter to eliminate the noise, but I had two carriers to notch out and only one notch filter.

VOG AM carrier

Synchronous detection to the rescue… 

The simple solution was to eliminate one of the carriers using my SDR’s synchronous detector which can lock to either the upper or lower sideband. In this case, it didn’t make any difference which sideband I locked to because both had similar audio fidelity and were otherwise noise free. In the end, I locked to the lower sideband, thus eliminating the het in the upper sideband.

Next, I enabled my notch filter and moved its frequency to cover the annoying het carrier in the lower sideband; I kept the notch filter width as narrow as I could to preserve VOG’s audio fidelity. You can see the notch filter location and width in the spectrum display above (the notch filter is the thin yellow line).

I should note here that the great thing about using an SDR–or tabletop receiver with a spectrum display–is that you can see where the noise is. I was using my WinRadio Excalibur, but pretty much any SDR in my shack could have handled this task.

The results? No het tone and I was able to preserve the great audio fidelity from the Voice of Greece broadcast!

Here’s a 3.5 hour recording I made after cleaning up the signal. I believe at one point in the recording, I switched off the notch filter to demonstrate how loud the het tone was:

Android tablet SDRs?

Image: screen grab from SDRtouch video

SWLing Post reader, Philip, writes with the following question:

“I want to know if you are aware of any good shortwave receivers that can be used on an Android tablet.”

I am aware of the Android SDR application, SDR Touch (see image above), but have never used it so I can’t comment on compatibility with the various SDRs on the market. I know that SDR Touch is compatible with devices that support USB host mode–but you may need to do research to see if your Android device and potential receiver are compatible. I believe most SDR Touch users connect their device to RTL-SDR dongles.

Readers: Please comment if you have any suggestions for Philip. I’m also curious if anyone has had success pairing an Android tablet to an HF-capable SDR.

Primary, Ion, and Polymer: a lithium battery primer

EnergizerLithium

Energizer ultimate lithium cells are designed to be a lighter, longer-life direct replacement for the AA alkaline battery.

Lithium primary, lithium ion, lithium polymer…want to know the differences between–and varied uses for–these diverse types of lithium batteries? You’re not alone…so did I.

Recently, a reader asked about the suitability of using AA Lithium batteries in a Tecsun radio.  Several knowledgeable Post contributors–including Richard Langley, Ken Hansen, DL4NO, Eric Cottrell, and Mark Piaskiewicz–responded, and a discussion of the differences in various lithium cells and their chemistry followed.

I was quite intrigued by this discussion, and wanted to learn more; a bit of research ensued. The wonderful folks at Zbattery.com came to my aid, clarifying the compositions of these various batteries and enlightening me regarding their unique applications.

Following is a (nutshell) primer describing what I’ve recently gleaned from these experts on the subject of lithium batteries. First, a brief disclaimer: the scope of this article is modest, explaining briefly the roles and compositions of the most common lithium batteries used by consumers and hobbyists/enthusiasts. So, if you’d like an even more detailed discussion of batteries, please check out the Battery University website.

With that said, there are generally three types of lithium cells:

1. Primary Lithium (non-rechargeable)

Though this SAFT battery looks like a typical AA, it produces a whopping 3.6V and will certainly fry a radio that is expecting 1.5 volts from each AA cell.

Though this SAFT battery looks like a typical 1.5 V AA, it produces 3.6V and will fry most radios.

Primary Lithium batteries are single-use and should not be recharged under any circumstances. These batteries have a high charge density (i.e., a long life), and as a result, cost more per unit than other single-use (disposable) batteries, such as alkalines.

Primary lithium cells generally produce 3.6 to 3.7 volts; however, there are manufacturers (Energizer and Duracell, to name two) who have developed cell chemistry that lowers this voltage down to 1.5 volts per cell, thus creating a safe, direct replacement for the common AA alkaline battery.

Unless you are purchasing a battery with a AA form factor from Energizer or Duracell, you should double check the voltage of the battery you are purchasing. There are many manufacturers who produce a 3.6 volt primary lithium batteries that have the same dimensions, or form factor, of an AA battery (see photo right), but are used in specialty medical, military, industrial and testing applications in which voltage requirements are higher.  These cannot be used interchangeably with conventional AAs, as they will cause harm to a device.

In other words, do your research when purchasing a primary lithium cell! Make sure the voltage matches what your electronic device requires–or as Post contributor, Richard Langley, puts it–“Caveat emptor!” (Buyer, beware!)

2. Lithium Ion (rechargeable)

Lithium Ion packLithium Ion batteries are currently one of the most popular rechargeable batteries for consumer electronics on the battery market. There are a number of Lithium Ion variations with their own unique chemistries–and their own unique characteristics–but in general these have a high energy density, a modest memory effect, and exhibit only a gradual loss of charge when not in use.

Generally speaking, Li-ion batteries are not available in voltages most radios and other electronics would need, from, say, AA, AAA, C, D, and 9V alkaline. There are manufacturers who produce Li-ion varieties in a AA form factor (they look like AAs), but which produce more than double (3.6V) the peak voltage of an alkaline AA (1.5V); thus, these lithium batteries, too, can only be used in devices designed around these higher voltages–such as specialty flashlights, military, industrial, and medical equipment.

There are a number of radio manufacturers using slim Li-ion battery packs like the one in the image above.

3. Lithium Polymer (rechargeable)

Most LiPo batteries come in a "pouch" format, designed for specific applications,

Most LiPo batteries come in a “pouch” format, designed for specific applications,

Lithium Polymer (LiPo, LIP, Li-poly) are rechargeable battery packs that generally produce 3.6 – 3.8 volts when charged. LiPo packs have much of the same charge and  discharge characteristics of Li-ion batteries, however, they are lighter in weight and can be designed to fit almost any shape.

LiPo batteries have a very strong following in the world of radio-controlled aircraft and cars–their feather-light weight as well as gradual discharge curve render LiPos almost ideal for these applications. LiPo packs are also used in consumer electronic, solar, and GPS applications, to name a few. LiPo pack variations are currently being considered for use in electric and hybrid vehicles.

Summary

And so, returning to our original post questioning the use of Lithium cells in reader Philip Dickinson’s Tecsun PL-606, the Tecsun representative was absolutely correct:  these batteries, it turns out, are not suited for this application, as the voltage is too high for safe use in this Tecsun.

Since I didn’t have a link to the batteries Philip purchased, I assumed Philip might be referring to Energizer Ultimate Lithium AA batteries, which are direct 1.5V  replacements for alkaline AA batteries (and why I use an Energizer graphic in the post).

At any rate, it appears that Philip purchased 3.6V primary lithium cells in a AA cylindrical form factor. If he does pop these AA lithiums in his PL-606, it will surely fry the radio as the voltage is more than double what this radio actually requires.

Hopefully, Philip can return these lithium cells and replace them with the Energizer or Duracell 1.5 V AA variety.

Philip, thanks for writing in with this question; learning about lithiums has been most interesting!  And hopefully, this primer you’ve invoked will save other radios from harm: readers, do check your voltage requirements before you insert those lithiums.

Jeff finds a solution for sticky preset buttons on the CC-Radio 2E

CCradio 2e

Jeff, over at the Herculodge blog, recently posted that the preset #2 button on his C.Crane CC-Radio 2E had become so sticky, it was almost to the point of not being functional.

One of his readers suggested that he use Deoxit spray to remedy the sticky button and it worked!

Deoxit is amazing stuff and something I suggest any radio enthusiast keep handy. Years ago, I had an Icom IC-735 I thought needed a new power button;I had to press and hold the button for the power to turn on. I searched for a replacement botton for weeks. When I reached out to a friend who is an electronics technician, he suggested that I open the chassis and try spraying the button with Deoxit.

I did, and it worked beautifully.

Deoxit is not the cheapest contact cleaner around, but it is the brand I trust the most. It comes in both a spray and liquid form.

Hamfest find: Griffin Technology PowerMate Controller

GriffinPOwermateUSB

A few weeks ago, I attended the WCARS hamfest in near Waynesville, North Carolina. I walked out of that hamfest carrying way more goods than I had intended to purchase (more on that in a future post–!).

One of the best bargains I found was a Griffin Technology NA16029 PowerMate USB Multimedia Controller. The seller is a friend; he was trying (and succeeding) to push off a lot of his gear on me. We were actually in reverse price negotiations at one point–as he kept discounting prices, I was trying to raise them.

Knowing I’m an avid SDR guy, he insisted I give this Griffin Powermate controller a go.  I purchased it for $5 after I believe he had offered it for free (yes, the results of reverse negotiations).

I took the controller home assuming it would be cumbersome to interface with my SDRs–what a poor assumption I had made! It was a breeze: simply install the driver, and launch its associated application. The software makes it very easy to associate PowerMate controller actions with keystrokes and other PC functions.

PowerMate 8132015 54232 PM

There are a surprising amount of functions this simple knob performs:

  • Rotate clockwise and counter clockwise
  • Press down and rotate clockwise and counter clockwise
  • Press down once
  • Press down and hold

I set up the PowerMate to control my WinRadio Excalibur as follows:

  • Press and hold launches the WinRadio Excalibur application
  • Rotating the knob tunes up and down
  • Pressing down and rotating increases and decreases bandwidth
  • Pressing once toggles the volume mute

PowerMate-ExcaliburThe PowerMate is a brilliant piece of kit!

It has enhanced my user experience with the Excalibur. Soon, I’ll set it up to work with my Elad FDM-S2, and SDRplay RSP.

The PowerMate software allows you to set up multiple configurations, so it’s easy to call up a configuration based on the SDR being used (since mine have unique hotkeys).

The good news is a new PowerMate is only about $32 via Amazon.com.

I’m quite tempted, in fact, to buy a second unit to use with my laptop and to serve as a spare.

While looking up PowerMate pricing, I noticed more complex multimedia controllers on Amazon; I’m curious if any Post readers have experience with other models.

Seems to be a very affordable way to enhance your SDR user experience.

Click here to view the PowerMate on Amazon: http://amzn.to/1MmyxkC