Tag Archives: Loop Antennas

A File Worth Having: Bob’s guide to building an Electrically Small Resonant Loop Antenna for Mediumwave Reception

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This post is short and sweet.

If you click here–Electrically Small Resonant Loop Antenna for Mediumwave Reception (PDF)–you can download a copy of Bob Colegrove’s excellent paper on the Electrically Small Resonant Loop Antenna for Mediumwave Reception.

He has actually built this antenna; it works; and he uses it often. Perhaps you might want to build one for yourself. As an added bonus, Bob is an excellent writer (in my not-so-humble opinion). What’s not to like?

— Jock Elliott, KB2GOM

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The Great Gonzo Radio Experiment

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By Jock Elliott, KB2GOM

It’s funny how you can start out thinking about how to solve a problem, the whole process takes a turn, and you wind up with an unexpected but pleasing result.

It all started innocently enough. Alan posted this — https://swling.com/blog/2024/11/bbc-rd-how-to-test-a-loop-antenna/ — and this statement appeared at the end of a BBC report on how to test loop antennas:

“Polarisation Illustrations of the antenna usually show it mounted upright; that is, with
its axis parallel to the ground. This is fine for the reception of LF and MF transmissions, which are vertically polarised, but most HF transmissions are horizontally polarised.”

When I tested that assertion here — https://swling.com/blog/2024/12/here-we-go-loop-de-loop-in-which-your-humble-correspondent-tests-a-hypothesis/ — there were a couple of interesting responses.

Bob Colegrove said (in part):

“To address your conundrum, from my long-standing, untutored tinkering with loop antennas, I have concluded that, regardless of LW, MW, or SW, optimum performance for peaks and nulls requires that the axis of the loop (i.e., line through the center of the coil) be able to rotate 360 degrees laterally and 90 degrees vertically.” (emphasis mine)

Robert Gulley added:

“I will have to concur with Bob – if I may state it another way, there is no “proper” position for a loop when getting shortwave signals.”

To which I responded:

“I suppose the ultimate setup might be an articulated motorized outdoor mount with a joystick inside that would allow me to fiddle the loop to the optimal position.”

Early in the morning I awoke thinking about how a system capable of manipulating my three-foot-diameter MFJ 1886 loop both vertically and horizontally might be implemented. Everything that came to mind seemed awkward, hard to put together, difficult to operate, expensive, and just plain clunky.

I dozed off and woke up thinking: “What about a really small loop? I could hold it in my hand and easily turn it to different positions to optimize reception, no equipment required.”

A thought came to mind: “You’ve got a small loop antenna, why don’t you see what you can do with it?”

At this point, I need to make my Shameful Admission: I got so intrigued by the idea of using my wrist and hand to turn a small loop to various orientations that I forgot that I was trying to solve the problem of manipulating a shortwave loop.

The loop that came to mind is the Terk AM Advantage. I tested it here. Designed to boost signals on medium wave, it is a nine-inch tunable loop encased in plastic that requires no power supply. It inductively couples with the ferrite antenna inside a portable radio. But I seemed to recall that it also comes with a direct wire connector that can be used with some radios. Perhaps I could connect it to my CCrane EP-PRO which has clips and a switch for an external medium wave antenna on the back of the case.

I found the Terk AM Advantage easily enough, but the direct wire connector required a major archeological dig. Once I unearthed it, I plugged the connector into the back of the Terk AM Advantage, slipped the wires from the connector into the clips on the back of the EP-PRO.

Now to try it out . . .

Tuning slowly down the dial, I found across a very faint signal that I could barely copy. Reaching around the back of the EP-PRO, I switched from the EP-PRO’s internal antenna to the Terk AM Advantage external loop antenna (which I was holding in my hand), rotated it from side to side, tipped it back and forth, and – tah-dah! – was rewarded by a far more copyable signal. It was WEEU in Reading PA, 200 miles away, transmitting 6,000 watts into the darkness on 830 kHz. Switching back to the EP-PRO’s internal antenna, I tried rotating the EP-PRO to optimize the signal but could not produce a signal that was as good as the external loop.

Repeating the procedure with additional faint stations, I got the same results: better reception with the handheld loop antenna, and it was fun and easy to use. I held it in my left hand (it’s light) so I could rotate the dial that peaks the signal with my thumb and working the tuning knob on the EP-PRO with my right hand. It was a very pleasing, almost addictive, experience.

If you’re looking for a potent setup for medium wave DXing, I can recommend the EP-PRO/Terk AM Advantage combo, even though it wasn’t my original objective. Call it serendipity.

In the meantime, does anyone know what might be the smallest loop that could be handheld for shortwave reception and would provide a performance boost over a whip antenna?

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Here we go loop de loop . . . in which your humble correspondent tests a hypothesis

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By Jock Elliott, KB2GOM

It was this post by Alan — https://swling.com/blog/2024/11/bbc-rd-how-to-test-a-loop-antenna/ — that set me off. After downloading the BBC report on how to test a loop antenna, I noticed the following in it:

“Polarisation Illustrations of the antenna usually show it mounted upright; that is, with
its axis parallel to the ground. This is fine for the reception of LF and MF transmissions, which
are vertically polarised, but most HF transmissions are horizontally polarised.”

Huh, I thought, “I wonder this would have any bearing on how I use my MFJ 1886 loop antenna?

So hooking the 1886 loop to an SDRplay RSPdx, here’s what the spectrum looks like on medium wave in vertical orientation with the 1886’s internal amp turned on:

And here’s what the medium wave spectrum looks like with the loop in horizontal orientation, amp on:

But what about shortwave reception? Here’s 31 meters in vertical orientation:

And here’s 31 meters with the loop in horizontal orientation:

Here’s 25 meters in vertical orientation:

Here’s 25 meters in horizontal orientation:

It looks to me, at the very least, the noise floor is lower . . . or I am in desperate need of a laxative?

For more about my adventures with the 1886 loop, check this — https://swling.com/blog/2022/10/testing-the-mfj-1886-receive-loop-antenna/ — and this — https://swling.com/blog/2023/01/saturday-morning-fun-fat-mw-dxing-with-the-mfj-1886/

My conclusions: I definitely don’t want the 1886 loop in horizontal orientation for medium wave DXing, but I think that the flat orientation might help for shortwave DXing.

What do you think?

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Giuseppe’s “Delicate” Loop Antenna

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Many thanks to SWLing Post contributor, Giuseppe Morlè (IZ0GZW), who writes:

Dear Thomas,

I am Giuseppe Morlè, IZ0GZW, from Formia, located in central Italy along the Tyrrhenian Sea. I hope everything is going well for you after the hurricane and that you and your loved ones are in good health.

I’m sending you this latest loop antenna of mine, which I’ve named “Delicate” due to its small size—about 20 cm in diameter—and because it fits perfectly with the Malahit receiver inside my car.

I am currently comparing it with a larger loop antenna inside the car to see how they differ. In fact, all of my antennas—whether for VHF/UHF or CB—are installed inside the passenger compartment of my car, and I can assure you, they work very well. Even my antennas for HF listening are mounted inside the vehicle.

I also have a loaded wire antenna hidden under the car, running from one wheel to the other. It works especially well on the 20-meter band, which is my favorite band for listening.

I wanted to share with you and all of the SWLing Post readers my experiences with listening and QRP experiments.

Thanks to you and all the friends at the SWLing Post.

Best regards,
Giuseppe Morlè, IZ0GZW

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Small Unidirectional Loop Antenna (SULA) Part 3: Questions & Answers

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Many thanks to SWLing Post contributor extraordinaire, 13dka, who brings us Part Two of a three part series about the new SULA homebrew antenna project. This first article describes this affordable antenna and demonstrates its unique reception properties. The second article focuses on construction notes. This third and final article will essentially be a Q&A about the SULA antenna.

This wideband unidirectional antenna is an outstanding and innovative development for the portable DXer. I love the fact that it came to fruition via a collaboration between Grayhat and 13dka: two amazing gents and radio ambassadors on our SWLing.net discussion board and here on the SWLing Post. So many thanks to both of them!

Please enjoy and share Part 3:

Part 3: SULA Q&A

by 13dka

Q: Where can I ask questions, discuss all aspects of the the SULA or collaborate in its further development?

A: There is a thread dedicated to the SULA in the new SWLing.com message board: https://swling.net/viewtopic.php?t=55

Q: Since the antenna is “lossy”, what’s the point of having a “beam”?

A: The answer is once again “SNR”: First off, remember that the LNA is there to make up for most of the losses. Secondly, this is all about the noise pickup, 20dB less gain/more losses outside the main lobe means also a reduction of atmospheric/cosmic/whatnot QRN and of course everything manmade from all these sides. The wide horizontal lobe is more or less one hemisphere horizontally, but the flat-ish vertical pattern makes that only a slice of it. In other words, there will be less QRN and QRM pickup from the back and the top. The idea is that the SNR will ideally increase more than the preamp’s noise figure will cost and it often sounds like this is what actually happens. Of course it’s also nice that you can turn an unwanted signal down using the more or less pronounced notch in the backside pattern up to 21 MHz – also very helpful for direction finding.

Q: Do I need a rotor?

A: It depends. If you are one of the lucky few still having a low-QRM-environment at home and you want to put it in the backyard, you really may want to be able to turn it remotely. If you’re using it portable you can simply rotate the mast manually. If you have local QRM or can’t mount it very far away from your or other houses, you may want to rotate the back of the antenna towards that source, leave it at that position forever and enjoy what’s coming in on the pretty wide main lobe of the antenna. The horizontal lobe covers more or less half of the horizon, depending on your stations of interest and location you could get away with never turning the antenna at all.

Q: Is it better than the XYZ loop?

A: Hey, that’s exactly what I wanted to ask you! 🙂 Even though the SULA is very similar in appearance and performance to a good SML working in ideal (ground conductivity) conditions, the SULA is a pretty different animal with a different behavior: Regular small loops, besides being bidirectional, can lose quite a bit of their low angle sensitivity over “poor” ground while the SULA is supposed to be retaining its properties better over any type of ground. Also, while many SMLs are tuned for VLF through the lower portion of the shortwave, the SULA complements those with quite uniform (good) properties up to 30 MHz and beyond.

Q: I have an end-fed random wire or dipole strung up from the house to a tree etc. – can the SULA beat that?

A: That’s quite possible. To get low takeoff angles from horizontal wire antennas you need to string them up at least 1/2 wavelength high, that’s 20m/66ft on 40/41m, 10m/33ft on 20m and so on. If you can’t do that, the SULA may be your ticket to listen farther beyond the horizon. Also, wire antennas are often strung up to match space restrictions or avoid QRM vectors and that way you may end up with some directionality in directions you don’t want, or no directionality at all when the wire is too low. Another noteworthy point is the ground: For most horizontal antennas, better ground means a considerable higher takeoff angle so the dipole needs even more height for low angles. The SULA’s takeoff angle benefits a little from the better ground and only gets a little worse over poor ground.

Q: Do I really need an LNA?

A: I hope so? Of course it depends… if you are going to try this antenna in a very noisy environment, the LNA may have little to no benefit. The noise is limiting your “radio horizon” to very loud signals anyway and for those you may not need an LNA, ever. On the other hand, the antenna is very lossy and in a quiet environment where noise is not an issue at all, weak signals may drop below the sensitivity threshold of your receiver without the LNA. The less noise you have, the more you’ll be able to benefit from an LNA. You will also need one when your radio isn’t all that sensitive, similar to the requirements to run a YouLoop. Andrew kept the loop impedance as constant as possible in order to allow any low impedance coax preamp to work behind the Balun. Any LNA with 20dB of gain should do, as per usual, better stuff may bring better results.

Among the sparse offers for decent shortwave LNAs, the NooElec LANA HF seems to be the only decent LNA sold via Amazon. It’s comparatively low-cost and unlike the other offers on Amazon, ready to be powered via Bias-T or even via Micro-USB and therefore happy with 5V. Since I also had the balun from the same company I could simply connect that all with a couple of these cute little SMA plumbing bits and it worked. The downside is its unknown but perceivably low resilience against intermodulation (low 3rd-order intercept point), this is usually not a problem with such a small loop but it can be in the presence of nearby transmitters.

If you do have nearby transmitters and don’t mind sourcing an LNA from Europe, Andrew recently pointed me to preamps from here. They offer a moderately priced preamp with a 2N5109 transistor (based on the W7IUV design) for a high IP3 value and low noise, which is also available in PCB-only and fully assembled versions including a compartment. They also offer Bias-T boxes.

Q: What is special/different about this antenna? There are already very similar designs!

A: It’s supposed to be simpler and more compact/portable, and it seems to deliver more consistent results over the entire coverage range in different usage environments than similar designs. The SULA was designed to be made with things that are particularly easy to obtain, or which were already obtained — many of us SWLs have some of that Nooelec stuff in our drawer anyway, even when (or because) we’re not habitual antenna builders and balun winders. Now making a better balun and buying a better preamp is not hard and could even bring better results but the point is that you don’t have to. In summary, this is not meant to be a miracle antenna, just number of compromises re-arranged to create a particularly uncomplicated, small, unidirectional loop antenna that aims for DX, for apartment dwellers and DX nomads like me.

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Matt’s 2022 Portable Loop Antenna Shootout

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Many thanks to SWLing Post contributor, Matt Blaze, for the following guest post:

Matt’s 2022 Portable Loop Antenna Shootout

by Matt Blaze, WB2SRI

Followers of this blog may be familiar with my “shortwave radio shootouts” that I post from time to time. The idea is to compare how well different radios demodulate the exact same signal. Basically, I take a bunch of radios, hook them up to the same antenna via an RF distribution amplifier, tune the radios to some distant signal, and record the audio output from them simultaneously. Sometimes that kind of comparison can be more revealing of actual real-world performance than lab measurements or technical specifications.

The other day, I decided to do the same thing, but for antennas instead of radios. Essentially, I inverted the setup. Instead of hooking up different radios to the same antenna, I hooked up identical radios to different portable antennas and recorded them demodulating the same signals at the same time.

In this first of perhaps a series of these antenna shootouts, I wanted to compare three portable amplified magnetic loop antennas. When I say “portable” here, I mean broadband antennas that can pack reasonable compactly for travel and that can be set up and broken down easily for use “on location”, say on a picnic table or hotel balcony, or perhaps installed temporarily on a roof, without too much fuss.

The antennas are:

– The Wellbrook FLX1530LN with a 1 meter diameter loop of LMR400 coax. This is my “standard” portable antenna (I use a telescoping broom handle for the support; I wrote about it here as the “signal sweeper” last year). Excellent performance, but on the bulky side for travel. Performs well from LW through HF. Not cheap, at about USD 225 including shipping for the amplifier and power injector, but not including the loop, mounting hardware, or feedline.

– The Wellbrook FLX1530LN with a 0.5 meter diameter loop of RG142 (a stiff “aircraft grade” version of RG58 that holds it shape well at this size). I used some 1/2 inch PVC pipe as the vertical support. Because of the smaller diameter loop and thinner coax, it packs down to a much smaller and lighter package than the 1 meter LMR400 version.

– The K-180WLA, an inexpensive (about USD 60) 0.5 meter loop from China, sold on eBay and Amazon. The loop is steel wire (which can be wound down to a small diameter for transport), and the kit includes everything you need, including a rechargeable power injector. (However, the power injector uses a noisy voltage booster, so I substituted my own bias-T injector for these experiments). Ostensibly covers LW through VHF, but the low end coverage is, shall we say, somewhat aspirational, as you will see.

– I also recorded, for comparison, the built-in ferrite bar (for LW/MW) and whip antenna (for HF) of the receiver.

This is, of course, only a small sampling of portable loop antennas, both commercial and homebrew. But I wanted to start with what I had on hand and with what meets my own needs. (I omitted from consideration loops that require tuning, since I want to be able to install the antenna without needing access to it every time I change frequency).

For each signal captured, I oriented and positioned each antennas to maximize signal quality, taking care to move them away from each other and interfering metal objects. So you’re hearing (approximately) the best each antenna had to offer (on my roof under suboptimal band conditions).

The receivers I used were four Sangean ATS-909×2 portable LW/MW/SW/FM/Air radios. I believe this to be the best currently available (relatively inexpensive) portable shortwave receiver on the market. It has excellent performance (and is admirably resistant to overload and intermod when used with an active antenna). It lacks a sync mode, but that’s rarely implemented well on portable radios anyway. As a practical matter, it has a good line-level output jack, and I already happened to own four of them.

As in my other shootouts, for each signal, there are a total of five recordings: a monoaural recording of the audio from each of the four antennas, plus a narrated stereo recording comparing a reference (the 1M Wellbrook) on the Left channel with each of the other antennas in succession on the Right channel. The stereo recording is intended as a quick overview, but it will only make sense if you listen in stereo, preferably with good headphones. (You can switch the earcups to get a quick comparison as you listen.)

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Small Unidirectional Loop Antenna (SULA) Part 2: Construction Notes

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Many thanks to SWLing Post contributor extraordinaire, 13dka, who brings us Part Two of a three part series about the new SULA homebrew antenna project. This first article describes this affordable antenna and demonstrates its unique reception properties. This second article focuses on construction notes. The third and final article will essentially be a Q&A about the SULA antenna. All articles will eventually link to each other once published.

Please enjoy and share Part 2:

Part 2: SULA Construction notes

by 13dka

The drawing [above] has all you need to know. You basically need to put up a symmetrical wire diamond starting with a balun at the one end and terminating in a resistor at the other end of the horizontal boom, the sides are supposed to be 76cm/29.92″ long so you need to make yourself some…

Support structure:

I used 0.63″/1.6cm square plastic square tubing/cable duct profiles from the home improvement market to make the support structure. You can use anything non-conductive for that of course, broom sticks, lathes… The plastic profiles I used had the advantage of being in the house and easy to work on with a Dremel-style tool and everything can be assembled using the same self-tapping screws without even drilling. The profiles are held together with 2 screws, for transport I unscrew one of them and put that into an extra “parking” screw hole on the side, then I can collapse the cross for easy fit into the trunk, a rucksack etc.

These profiles are available in different diameters that fit into each other like a telescoping whip. This is useful to make the support structure variable for experiments and to control the loop shape and tension on the wire. The booms end up at 1.075m each, the profiles come in 1m length, so that’s 4 short pieces of the smaller size tube to extend the main booms by 37mm on each side

On the resistor end of the loop that smaller tube isn’t mounted in the “boom” tube but to the side of it in order to keep the wire running straight from the balun box on the other side.

Mast/mounting:

You can use anything non-conductive to bring it up to height. On second thought that is indeed bad news if you were planning on putting that up on your metal mast…and we have no data on what happens when you do it anyway. I don’t know if the smallest (4m) telescoping fiberglass poles would suffice for portable operation, but I’m a fan of just using the big lower segments of my 10m “HD” mast for the stiffness they give me (3 segments for the height, the 4th collapsed into in the base segment for easy rotation). Telescoping masts also give you easy control over…

Height:

The published patterns are for 3m/10′ feedpoint height over “average” ground. Increasing height further has no expectable advantage, instead it will deteriorate the favorable directional pattern of the loop. Flying it lower, or even a lot lower in windy weather on the other hand is causing a surprisingly moderate hit on performance.

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