Tag Archives: Portable Radios

DX Fiend: Gary DeBock’s guide to building the PL-380 “Pest Control” FSL antenna

Gary-Debock-Pest Control-FSL-PL-380-1SWLing Post contributor, Gary DeBock, is an acclaimed innovator in the realm of Ultralight DXing–he’s well-known for constantly pushing the envelop on these inexpensive DX receivers.

Gary has published yet another detailed home-brew project that can turn your stock Tecsun PL-380 into a Mediumwave DX Fiend!

Many thanks to Gary for the following guest post:


“Pest Control” 4.25” FSL Tecsun PL-380

Put Your Local Noisemakers Down for the Count with this Breakthrough Model

By Gary DeBock, Puyallup, WA, USA

February 2016

Introduction  

The first portable radio with a transplanted FSL antenna was introduced last month (click here to read), providing breakthrough MW-DXing performance in the pocket radio class. Although this 3” Bar FSL Tecsun PL-380 exceeded expectations in every way, its 100mm ferrite bars were in very short supply.

By coincidence the final eBay seller of these 100mm x 20mm x 3mm Russian surplus bars (in Romania) stopped selling them on the day that the first model was finished, creating an instant rush in demand. After providing twelve sets (of 8 bars each) to various DXers my own stock of these bars was rapidly dwindling, and it became an urgent matter to design a similar model using the plentiful 62mm x 12mm x 4mm ferrite bars. Sensitivity of the new FSL antenna would need to be fully competitive with the original model, and I was hopeful of a design that would offer at least one new DXing advantage.

Gary-Debock-Pest Control-FSL-PL-380-2

With the shorter (62mm bars) it would require a larger diameter FSL antenna to come close to the original model in sensitivity, so by necessity this alternative model would need to have a “short and stubby” FSL coil design. After considering this I recalled that most of the antennas with a reputation for exceptional nulling performance (and direction finding) seemed to have such a “short and stubby” coil design—so why not take this opportunity to design and create a portable radio with breakthrough nulling performance, in addition to its superior sensitivity? Such a combination would hopefully make the new model an innovative performer in urban areas—a portable radio that could not only silence multiple MW “pest” stations, but also provide unusual sensitivity to receive competing stations right on the same frequencies. As the model was developed several technical discoveries were made to improve nulling performance, such as the use of grounded shield foil for the Litz wires, and an ultra-symmetrical FSL coil. But even if you live in a rural area far from any MW stations, you will find that this modified radio has a great deal of performance to offer— a combination of sensitivity, selectivity and nulling ability that has never existed in portable form.

Project Overview  

This modification procedure will convert the Tecsun PL-380 AM-LW-FM-SW portable from a modest-performing Medium Wave receiver into an exceptional one, with a significant enhancement of Longwave performance as well. The process involves some close-order soldering on a crowded PL-380 circuit board, and should only be attempted by those will good close-up eyesight, steady hand coordination and some soldering experience. The process also involves the winding of a highly symmetrical antenna coil, which is essential for optimal nulling performance. Because of this, careful attention to the instructions and the use of the recommended ferrite bars and Litz wire is important for the best performance. Certain component parts may be in short supply depending upon current demand, and it is recommended that all these be collected prior to starting the modification procedure.

Since major portions of this project involve duplication of procedures contained in the PL-380 7.5” Loopstick Transplant article, reference is made to various steps and instructions in that article (posted here). As such, hobbyists who have successfully completed the 7.5” loopstick transplant project on a PL-380 will find this procedure relatively simple, with only the 4.25” Bar FSL construction as a new challenge. The resulting FSL-enhanced PL-380 truly provides a quantum leap in MW-DXing performance over the stock model, but reasonable care is necessary to protect the modified portable from sudden drops or mechanical shocks. Completion of the finished radio should provide a great level of satisfaction and hobby enjoyment, especially during travel opportunities where external antennas are impractical or forbidden.

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Construction Parts Required

A.) Tecsun PL-380 AM-LW-FM-SW Receiver (available from multiple sources on eBay)

B.) Precut section of Ace Hardware 48″ orange plastic carpenter’s level (dimensions to follow)

C.) 2.6″ long section of the 3.5″ diameter “Big Boss Noodle

D.) 22 Russian surplus 62mm x 12mm x 4mm ferrite bars

E.) Tube of Duro Super Glue, .07 ounce (or equivalent)

F.) Two 1″ x 1/2″ strips of 1″ I.D. rubber heater hose

G.) 7 1/2″ of 1/8″ diameter shrink tubing

H.) Two 18″ long plastic tie wraps, 125 lb. test

I.) Oatey 4″ x 4″ foam closet spacer pack

J.) Roll of Rite Aid 1″ wide waterproof tape

K.) 40 feet of 250/46 Litz wire

L.) Roll of Scotch “Extreme” shipping tape (any size)

Miscellanious:

  • 8 1/2” x ¾” strip of heavy duty aluminum foil (Reynolds or equivalent)
  • 3” long #18 hookup wire
  • 25w pencil-type soldering iron
  • solder
  • hacksaw (or power miter saw)
  • hand tools

PL-380 Preparation  

Before voiding the warranty on your new PL-380, it’s a good idea to ensure that it has no existing problems which might require warranty service J Install batteries in the radio and give it a test run on all four bands, checking the tuning encoder, clock, volume control, speaker, headphone jack, display functions and digital searching modes. Make sure that the radio is working properly in all functions before starting the modification procedure, since the eBay sellers are unlikely to show you any sympathy after you tear out the stock loopstick. It’s also a good idea to check out the Medium Wave weak signal reception with the PL-380 stock loopstick before starting the modification, to establish a benchmark of performance against which the new 4.25” FSL’s DXing performance will be compared.

Gary-Debock-Pest Control-FSL-PL-380-4

Step-By-Step Construction

1) Follow the detailed cutting procedures in steps 1-9 of the loopstick transplant article (using either a power miter saw or hacksaw) to prepare the FSL antenna mounting frame, HOWEVER please note that the top section length for this project is 3 1/4” (82 mm), NOT 8” as in the loopstick transplant project. The finished precut frame should resemble the picture to the left, with the top section flat, and the bottom section back edge trimmed to allow full use of the radio’s whip antenna. The frame’s entire bottom section (including the glue surface) is identical in both the loopstick and FSL transplant projects.

2) Follow the detailed procedures in steps 17-22 of the loopstick transplant article to prepare the PL-380 cabinet for the FSL transplant procedure.

Gary-Debock-Pest Control-FSL-PL-380-5

3) Refer to the photo above (NOTE: These photos show the original FSL frame cut for the longer 100mm bars, which has a longer top section length than the 3 1/4” on this project’s FSL frame. Ignore this aspect). Place the prepared PL-380 cabinet in the vertical position as shown, with a paper roll (or other item) to keep the cabinet in the vertical position. If necessary sand the edges (only) of the antenna frame’s glue surface to ensure that no cutting debris or rough edges will cause an uneven gluing surface. Use a clean, damp cloth or paper towel to remove all dust and debris from both the antenna frame and PL-380 glue surfaces, then wipe them thoroughly dry. Ensure that maximum light shines on the PL-380’s top glue surface (as shown in the photo below), then practice making multiple “dry runs” of placing the antenna frame directly centered on the PL-380’s front top cabinet surface, with its front edge lined up with the PL-380’s beveled front edge. You will only get one chance to place the frame accurately when the super glue is on the PL-380 surface, so make sure that you know exactly what to do! The antenna frame should sit completely flat against the PL-380 cabinet, and slide across it smoothly if such a test is made. If not, sand any rough edges on the antenna frame’s glue surface and repeat the cleaning procedure.

Gary-Debock-Pest Control-FSL-PL-380-6

4) Refer to the photo above. After ensuring that you are fully prepared for accurate placement of the antenna frame on the PL-380 cabinet, place a 4 1/2” x 3/16” bead of super glue (114 mm x 5 mm) on the PL-380’s front top cabinet surface, as shown in the photo. Refer to the photo on the top of the next page. Ensure that the front side of the antenna frame (as shown) is facing you, then place the antenna frame in a centered position flat against the PL-380 cabinet, with its front edge lining up with the front beveled edge of the cabinet, as shown in the photo. Press the antenna frame down firmly against the cabinet for about one minute, scraping away any excess glue from the front and back edges with a small, flat jeweler’s screwdriver. It is especially important to remove any excess glue from the back edge of the antenna frame in order to allow the PL-380’s back cabinet to close normally. After completion of this step place the PL-380 (with the attached antenna frame) in a secure area until the FSL antenna is constructed.

Construction of FSL Antenna

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5) Refer to the photo at right. Take the precut section of “Big Boss Noodle,” and ensure that the top and bottom cut faces are perfectly straight. Place the section flat on the table as shown, and carefully wrap two lengths of the 1” waterproof tape tightly around the noodle’s circumference, adhesive side out (as shown). Ensure that these tape strips are parallel, and tight enough not to slide up or down. Take a perfectly straight 62 mm bar and press it tightly up against the tape as shown, with its lower edge flat on the table and its longer edges parallel to the noodle’s edges.

Gary-Debock-Pest Control-FSL-PL-380-86) Refer to the photo at right. Carefully press the remaining 21 bars against the waterproof tape, ensuring that their lower edges are flat against the table, and that there are no major gaps in between any bars. (NOTE: These bars occasionally have slightly curved edges, and it may be necessary to turn them upside down or backwards in order for them to fit in well with the adjacent bars. When all of the bars are carefully placed, 22 of them will fit exactly on the noodle’s circumference. If necessary, pull certain bars off of the tape and reposition them for a better fit).

When all 22 bars are positioned in a tidy pattern, wrap two strips of the waterproof tape tightly around them as shown, with the adhesive side out. It is OK if the two tape strips slightly overlap (as shown in the photo), but the two strips should be tight enough so that they don’t slide up or down, and also tight enough to secure the ferrite bar assembly in a circular pattern.

Gary-Debock-Pest Control-FSL-PL-380-97) Refer to the photo at right. Remove the inner staple from the Oatey foam, and locate a 14” (35 cm) length of the foam which is free of holes or imperfections. Cut a straightedge at the beginning of this 14” (35 cm) length of foam, and press this foam edge down on the tape at the position shown in the photo at right, perpendicular to the side of the bar assembly and with one edge of the foam length lined up with one edge of the bar assembly. Wrap the foam length tightly around the circumference of the bar assembly, stretching it slightly to keep it completely flat and lined up with the bar assembly edge. After the foam strip is tightly and completely wrapped around the bar assembly cut another straightedge to mate evenly with the first straightedge, ensuring that there are no gaps or overlaps along the two edges. If necessary, re-stretch and trim the foam strip to mate evenly with the first edge. After once again ensuring a tight wrap of the Oatey foam, secure the two edges with a 3” (76 mm) strip of waterproof tape, as shown in the photo on the previous page.

Gary-Debock-Pest Control-FSL-PL-380-108) Place the assembly in the position shown in the photo at right. Take scissors and trim the loose edge of the Oatey foam so that it is even with the other edge of the bar assembly, as shown in the photo at left. After this trimming both edges of the assembly should be flat, with the assembly forming a perfect cylindrical shape (as shown).

 

9) Refer to the photo below:

Gary-Debock-Pest Control-FSL-PL-380-11Place the assembly on one of its edges, as shown. Take the waterproof tape and tightly wrap one strip along the direct center of the assembly as shown, with the adhesive side out. Ensure that this strip of tape is tight enough so that it will not slide up or down by itself, and then cut the tape with a 2” (51 mm) overlap. If necessary (after wrapping this tape), shift the position of the tape slightly to ensure that it is running along the direct center of the assembly before proceeding with the next step.

10) NOTE: The symmetry of your Litz wire coil will be a major factor in determining the nulling capability of your modified PL-380. When winding the coil keep the Litz wire turns as tight and straight as possible, with no gaps or overlaps.

Gary-Debock-Pest Control-FSL-PL-380-12Refer to the photo on the right. Take the roll of 250/46 Litz wire and measure off 16” (41 cm) from the end. While holding this Litz wire point with one hand pick up the bar assembly with the other hand, and press down the (16”) Litz wire point with the wire parallel to the edge of the tape and 1/8” (3 mm) distant from it, as shown in the photo at left. Keep thumb pressure on this (16”) point while carefully winding a tight first turn of Litz wire around the circumference of the bar assembly, accurately maintaining the 1/8” (3 mm) distance from its edge. After this first Litz wire turn is wound tightly and accurately around the bar assembly it will set the pattern for the remaining turns, which only need to be tightly wound adjacent to the preceding turn.

Since the waterproof tape is wound with the adhesive side out on the assembly, if you need to take a break while winding the Litz wire coil place the assembly down on its edge, not on the adhesive side of the tape. Wrap the second turn tightly adjacent to the first turn, checking around the circumference of the assembly to ensure that there are no gaps or overlaps in the Litz wire turns. Continue this careful process until the entire coil has been wound, as described in the next step.

Gary-Debock-Pest Control-FSL-PL-380-1311) Refer to the photo at right. Continue winding tight, straight turns of Litz wire (with no gaps or overlaps) until the turns are within 1/8” (3 mm) of the other side of the tape. At this point you should have around 21 turns in your Litz wire coil, although the number of turns is not nearly as important as the symmetry of your coil. It should appear completely straight down the center of the assembly, as in the photo at right.

12) Refer to the photo below.

Gary-Debock-Pest Control-FSL-PL-380-14Take the Scotch “Extreme” tape and place a strip across the Litz wire coil at the exact start point (where the 16” point was first pressed down on the tape), ensuring that 16” of loose Litz wire still extends beyond this point for hookup purposes. Ensure that the “Extreme” tape strip is perfectly perpendicular to the Litz wire coil, and that there are no “bubbles” or major wrinkles along its length. Press this tape strip firmly down over the Litz wire coil to secure the coil in a symmetrical position, then trim the ends of the tape even with the edges of the bar assembly.

13) NOTE: To the maximum extent the two ends of the Litz wire coil should be secured by the Scotch “Extreme” tape so that they leave the coil as close together as possible, with no loose runs of single Litz wire along the coil. This factor (along with the use of a grounded shield around the lead-in Litz wires) has proven to have a major effect on the nulling capability of the FSL coil.

Gary-Debock-Pest Control-FSL-PL-380-15Refer to the photo at right. Place a second strip of Scotch “Extreme” tape across the Litz wire coil directly below and within 1/8” (3 mm) of the first strip, securing the other end of the coil where the Litz wire leaves the assembly. Once again ensure that 16” (41 cm) of loose Litz wire extends from the coil, then cut the Litz wire at that 16” (41 cm) point. Ensure that both Litz wires leave the coil freely without binding or kinks, and that the second strip of “Extreme” tape also has no “bubbles” or major wrinkles along its length. Press this second strip of “Extreme” tape firmly down over the coil to finally secure the coil in a symmetrical position, then once again trim the ends of the tape even with the edges of the bar assembly.

Gary-Debock-Pest Control-FSL-PL-380-1614) Refer to the photo above. Take the FSL assembly, 8 1/2” x 3/4” strip of aluminum foil and the 7 1/2” length of 1/8” shrink tubing and place them in the positions shown. Place the strip of aluminum foil under the Litz wires, with the Litz wires running about 1/4” from the right edge of the strip of aluminum foil. Starting as close as possible to the FSL coil (where the Litz wires leave the coil), make a lengthwise fold in the aluminum foil from right to left, covering over the Litz wires for the first 7 1/2” of the aluminum foil (leave 1” at the end of the foil, which will not be folded).. Ensure that the Litz wires are within this initial fold for the 7 1/2” length, then make a second lengthwise fold in the aluminum foil from left to right to securely wrap the Litz wires inside the foil for this first 7 1/2” length. Finally form the aluminum foil into a tight circle as shown, ensuring that neither of the Litz wires is exposed throughout this 7 1/2” length of the foil, and that they are both tightly wrapped in the foil. Also ensure that this entire length of the foil-wrapped Litz wires is of a small enough diameter to easily pass through the 1/8” shrink tubing.

Gary-Debock-Pest Control-FSL-PL-380-1715) Refer to the photo at right. Form the 1” end of the aluminum foil (which does not wrap around the Litz wires) into a compact cylindrical shape, as shown (NOTE: the foil is relatively fragile, and should be handled carefully). Take the loose ends of the Litz wires and pass them through the 1/8” shrink tubing, including the prepared end of the aluminum foil as it approaches that point. While grasping the Litz wires on the right side (as shown) carefully slide the shrink tubing toward the FSL coil, ensuring that it smoothly covers over the foil-wrapped Litz wires (if not, continue forming the aluminum foil into a smaller diameter so that the shrink tubing will easily cover over it. This process should go smoothly with proper preparation). When the shrink tubing is completely covering up the foil-wrapped Litz wires the last 1” section of the aluminum foil should be extending out of the right side of the shrink tubing, as shown in the photo. Handle this aluminum foil section with care in the remaining steps—it is relatively fragile, and should never be pulled for any reason.

Gary-Debock-Pest Control-FSL-PL-380-1816) Refer to the photo at right. Place the viously prepared PL-380 and antenna frame assembly flat on the table, with a protective cloth to keep the front panel display from damage. Take the prepared FSL antenna assembly and place it in the position shown, with the shielded Litz wire shrink tubing running along the back side of the antenna frame, and with the lower edge of the FSL assembly next to the top of the antenna frame. Place the two 1” x 1/2” strips of rubber heater hose in the two positions shown, in between the antenna frame and the FSL antenna and also in between the coil and the FSL edges, with the longer rubber strip dimensions parallel to the FSL edges. Start the two 175 lb. test plastic tie wraps in the positions shown (down the center of the rubber spacer strips), ensuring that the rubber spacer strips remain between the FSL assembly and the antenna frame, and that the spacer strips are centered at the very bottom of the FSL assembly. Also ensure that the Litz wires are in the position shown, with no pinching or binding between the FSL assembly and antenna frame. Slowly and carefully tighten the first plastic tie wrap while ensuring that the rubber spacer strip remains in the proper position. Tighten this plastic tie wrap only enough to securely hold the FSL assembly, and do not tighten it to the point where the ferrite bars’ circular pattern becomes distorted. In a similar manner, carefully tighten the other plastic tie wrap while ensuring that the rubber spacer strip remains in the centered position, in between the antenna frame and FSL assembly. Once again, tighten this tie wrap only enough to securely hold the FSL assembly, and not to the point where the ferrite bars’ circular pattern becomes distorted. When this process is complete the large plastic tie wraps’ clamps should be in the position shown, lined up with each other and in a position to support the radio/FSL combination when the model is laying down flat, on a table. Cut off the excess tie wrap lengths.

Gary-Debock-Pest Control-FSL-PL-380-1917) Refer to the photo at right.   Temporarily place the Litz wires down along the radio’s circuit board in the position shown. Locate the detailed circuit board antenna connection points “AN1” and “AN2” in the close up photo at the top of the next page. After locating these two circuit board connection points (with the Litz wires running in the position shown in the photo at left) place one of the Litz wires over the “AN1” circuit board point, and the other Litz wire over the “AN2” circuit board point. Then measure out about 1” (25 mm) extra Litz wire past these two circuit board connection points, and after making sure that the Litz wires are still in the approximate position shown in the photo at the beginning of this step, cut one (shorter) Litz wire 1” (25 mm) past the “AN2” circuit board point, and one (longer) Litz wire 1” (25 mm) past the “AN1” circuit board point.

NOTE: The proper procedure of tinning the ends of the Litz wires requires that all of the individual Litz wire strands be soldered together at the ends. This requires a clean, shiny solder connection all around the circumference of the Litz wire ends for at least 1/8” (3 mm). When preparing the ends of the Litz wires in the next step, ensure that the ends are tinned in this manner before continuing.

Gary-Debock-Pest Control-FSL-PL-380-21

18) Refer to the photo above. Temporarily remove the Litz wires from the PL-380 cabinet and place them in the position shown, with a protective surface over your work table to avoid hot solder damage. Carefully tin the ends of both Litz wires in the manner described above, working around the circumference of the Litz wire ends with a clean soldering iron for at least 1/4” (6 mm). After doing this, cut off the tinned section on both ends to a length of 1/8” (3 mm). When viewing the ends of the Litz wires after tinning, the entire 1/8” (3 mm) length should be bright and shiny all around its circumference, as shown in the photo at the top of the next page. The cut surface of the Litz wire (the circular face) should also be bright and shiny, with one solid surface of melted solder. Do NOT attempt to tin the 1” section of aluminum foil.

Gary-Debock-Pest Control-FSL-PL-380-2219) Refer to the photo above. Position the shrink tubing as shown, with the tubing entering the PL-380 cabinet near the corner where the wrist strap was previously located. Ensure that there will be sufficient slack in the shrink tubing (as shown) to route it through the empty hole left by removal of the wrist strap without binding (after this hole is enlarged to fit the shrink tubing diameter). Take a small, flat screwdriver and carefully pry apart the cabinet clamp as shown—so that it is wide enough to grip the shrink tubing, but not so wide as to break off.

Ensure that the circuit board points “AN1” and “AN2” still have a small amount of melted solder on them (after removal of the PL-380 stock loopstick, as described in the Loopstick transplant article). Also ensure that there is no excessive length in either of the Litz wires, since these both must be positioned as shown (if necessary, cut one or both to the proper length, and re-tin them as described in the previous step). Place the end of the shorter Litz wire (going to the AN2 circuit board point) down in a horizontal position as shown, and using a MINIMUM of heat (and no additional solder), solder the pre-tinned Litz wire end to the AN2 circuit board point while the wire is in a horizontal position. Carefully observe the connection to ensure that there are no solder bridges to the adjacent circuit board components. After ensuring this, following the detailed procedure described for the AN2 connection above, carefully solder the end of the longer Litz wire to the AN1 circuit board point in a horizontal position as shown, using a MINIMUM of heat (and no additional solder). NOTE: After soldering these connections do not attempt to force either Litz wire down in a horizontal position. Re-solder them in a horizontal position if it is necessary to get them flat against the circuit board.

Gary-Debock-Pest Control-FSL-PL-380-2320) Refer to the photo at right. Take the 3” length of #18 hookup wire and strip off 1/4” of insulation from one end, and 3/4” of insulation from the other end. If you are using stranded wire, twist the individual strands together on each end of the wire. Tin a small amount of solder on the shorter (1/4”) bare length. Locate the “GND” marking on the circuit board as shown in the photo, and using maximum care to keep the wire as flat as possible against the circuit board, solder the tinned end of the hookup wire to the large ground connection on the circuit board immediately to the left of the GND marking. Use only a minimum of heat to make a securely soldered connection, and ensure that there are no solder bridges to adjacent areas.

Cut a 3/4” x 1” section of Scotch “Extreme” tape. While holding the other end of the hookup wire next to (and making a secure electrical contact with) the 1” end of the aluminum foil coming out of the shrink tubing, slide the strip of “Extreme” tape under the connection, and securely wrap the tape around the connection (as shown) to permanently secure the two conductors together. MAKE SURE that these two conductors have a good electrical contact under the tape before continuing, since this connection is important for the model’s optimal nulling capability. During this process avoid rough treatment (or pulling) of the aluminum foil, since it is relatively fragile and easily separated.

Gary-Debock-Pest Control-FSL-PL-380-2421) Refer to the photo above. Using small diagonal cutters carefully clip off small pieces of the back cabinet’s wrist strap hole so that it will be of a similar size to that of the shrink tubing, in order to run the shrink tubing through without any pinching or damage. Ensure that the cut pieces do not fall inside the PL-380 cabinet.

Take the PL-380’s back cabinet section and carefully bring it close to the radio, as shown in the photo. Ensure that the whip antenna’s lead-in wire is not pinched, and also ensure that the shrink tubing is routed is a position close to the empty wrist strap hole in the back cabinet, as shown. As a first step, carefully mate the radio’s back cabinet to the radio’s right side (the one opposite the wrist strap hole) while continuing to guide the shrink tubing through the wrist strap hole. Finally, using a small, flat screwdriver, center the shrink tubing in the center of the wrist strap hole while mating the remaining (left) side of the cabinets together. Ensure that the shrink tubing is not pinched or extremely tight as it is clamped down in this hole. While holding the two cabinet sides together move the whip antenna up and away from the cabinet screw hole underneath, and insert the first cabinet screw, tightening it temporarily to keep the shrink tubing in position. Then insert and tighten the left upper and left lower cabinet screws thoroughly, while snapping the right lower cabinet sections together. Finally, after ensuring that the shrink tubing is still in the center of the wrist strap hole without any binding or excessive stress, tighten the final cabinet screw near the whip antenna base. Reinstall the two small battery compartment screws and reinsert batteries. This completes the assembly of the 4.25” FSL Tecsun PL-380 model.

Initial Testing

If you are not familiar with the PL-380, make sure that you study the owner’s manual to find the location of basic operating controls. It is important to initially test the radio in a location free of computer noise or other RF pollution—preferably in an outdoor location where its capabilities can be appreciated. Refer to the photo on the next page. Turn on the radio and select the Medium Wave band (530-1700 kHz in North America) and set the AM bandwidth control to the most selective (1 kHz) position (NOTE: This position also provides maximum MW and LW sensitivity for the model, although the higher audio frequencies are limited somewhat by the sharp DSP filtering). If your FSL antenna transplant is working properly you should notice an EXCEPTIONAL increase in the signal strength of weak fringe stations relative to the stock PL-380 model, and a very significant increase in fringe station strength relative to a 7.5” loopstick PL-380 model. Check fringe station strength across the band, and you should notice MW reception far superior to that of any stock portable in your collection. If you are not receiving any MW signals the problem is usually easy to trace—either one of the PL-380 circuit board connections is shorted to adjacent components because of too much solder, or the physical stress on the Litz wires (because they were not soldered in a horizontal position) has caused the circuit board connections to break off and separate from the board. In the first case you can attempt to remove excess solder by turning the circuit board upside down and melting the excess solder onto the tip of your soldering iron (or using a “solder sucker” in a normal position), but in the second case you will probably need a technician to restore proper function to your radio. Fortunately both of these problems are rare, and can be entirely avoided by carefully following the instructions in Step19.

Gary-Debock-Pest Control-FSL-PL-380-25

Operation

The triple advantage of superior FSL sensitivity, sharp DSP selectivity and exceptional nulling capability provide this breakthrough model with unprecedented weak-signal performance for a portable—to the extent that after a few DXing sessions the operator may have the impression that the realm of science fiction has been approached.

During DXing sessions it is a good idea to support both the PL-380 and FSL antenna frame in the same hand (as shown in the photo above), and also to avoid sudden mechanical stress or bumps to the antenna frame. When constructed according to this article the glue bond between the antenna frame and PL-380 is sufficient for routine operations, but the DXer should exercise care to avoid bumps, drops or other stress. The FSL antenna itself is fairly rugged, as constructed.

Refer to the photo above. The PL-380 has many digital search functions and advanced capabilities for a pocket radio, but some of the functions of particular interest to the transoceanic DXer are described here. The “AM Bandwidth” switch allows you to choose different levels of DSP filtering to limit splatter from domestic pests, and is usually left in the 1 kHz position for the narrowest filtering while chasing transoceanic DX (although this position does cut off some of the high frequency audio from the desired DX station). The 9/10 kHz switch allows you to change the tuning steps of the radio from the North American (10 kHz) band system to those of the European/ African/ Asian/ Pacific band system (9 kHz), depending upon your preferred DX targets. The MW / LW switch allows you to switch over to Longwave DXing—and you will be pleasantly surprised to discover that your newly installed 4.25” Bar FSL antenna is FAR more sensitive on the Longwave band than the stock PL-380 loopstick. Finally, the Display switch offers you multiple options while chasing transoceanic DX—you can have a 24 hour clock display, a display of the alarm time set in the radio, a constantly changing readout of DX signal strength and S/N ratio, or a temperature display (in either Celsius or Fahrenheit).

Because the antenna frame has been trimmed to allow full operation of the PL-380’s whip antenna to receive SW and FM signals, it’s possible to check the Shortwave parallels of Medium Wave DX stations (and switch back and forth) within a couple of seconds. In general, this “science fiction” PL-380 model’s sensitivity, selectivity and nulling capability will allow you to experience the most exciting AM-DXing fun that a portable can offer—and do so at an unbeatable price.

Nulling Pest Stations

This modified PL-380 was specifically designed to have unprecedented nulling capability for a portable, and when assembled according to the instructions it is capable of razor-sharp nulls on most semi-local and even local MW broadcast stations. Using the nulling function to maximum advantage takes a little bit of practice, and an understanding of the importance of both a horizontal and vertical null angle for different pest stations. It also helps to be in a clean RF environment, away from computer noise, AC house wiring and other limiting factors.

The horizontal null angle is pretty easy to determine—simply point the side of the FSL antenna toward the pest station’s direction until a minimum signal bearing is found. If you have an extremely powerful pest station that makes this impossible to determine on the fundamental frequency, detune the radio (off the pest station’s frequency) by about 10 kHz and try to find the bearing with the minimum pest station splatter .

Once you determine the horizontal null bearing, hold the radio at that bearing and carefully tilt the radio up and down at a slightly vertical angle to determine the absolute minimum signal point. This will be different for each pest station, so it is helpful to write these vertical null bearings down once you determine them, and memorize them if possible. They can be either positive angles (with the radio tilted upward) or negative angles (with the radio tilted downward). The point where the vertical null bearing intersects with the horizontal null bearing will always be the direction of the absolute minimum signal—you can picture this as two lines intersecting at a single point in space. Once the side of the FSL antenna is directed at that point, the signal of most pest stations will disappear into the noise. Since this point can be razor-sharp, it is often helpful to support one side of the radio on a “Lazy Susan” type assembly to keep the radio directed at the horizontal null bearing while you are finding the vertical null bearing.

The closer you are located to a pest station the tougher it will become to null it down into the noise—although this particular model will give you the best possible chance of success. Of course if you are located right next door to a 50 kW pest, you will probably need a little more “science fiction” than this model can provide J

This hard-wired FSL-enhanced PL-380 model is the second in a series of portables designed to be the ultimate “travel radios,” with DXing potential superior to any stock design. It has been a great thrill to design, construct and introduce these models, which are pretty fanatical in both appearance and DXing capabilities. My hope is that their function will inspire those who build and use them, and help them share my impression that the MW-DXing hobby has a very innovative and exciting future!

73 and Good DX,

Gary DeBock


Gary, again, thank you for documenting this procedure so thoroughly! No doubt, many a mediumwave DXer can benefit from the excellent nulling characteristics of your “Pest Control” FSL antenna!

Click here to view other tutorials and articles by Gary DeBock.

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DX Fiend: Gary DeBock’s guide to building the ultimate FSL antenna for the Tecsun PL-380

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-1

SWLing Post contributor, Gary DeBock, is an acclaimed innovator in the realm of Ultralight DXing–he’s well-known for constantly pushing the envelop on these inexpensive DX receivers.

This time, Gary has published a detailed home-brew project that can turn your stock Tecsun PL-380 into a Mediumwave DX Fiend!

In Gary’s own words:

This is the “Science Fiction PL-380” model, with the hobby’s first hard-wired FSL antenna in a portable configuration. The radio’s internal Si4734 DSP chip tunes the high sensitivity MW antenna, so there is no need to peak a variable capacitor. For those who can build or obtain this model, it will be a happy new year indeed!

Many thanks to Gary for the following guest post:


3 Inch FSL Tecsun PL-380 Model

Compact Breakthrough in MW Sensitivity, Selectivity and Portability

By Gary DeBock, Puyallup, WA, USA
January 2016

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-1

Introduction  

Portable radio enthusiasts were astonished when Silicon Labs first introduced their innovative Si4734 DSP chip in 2009—the pocket radios empowered by this new component had amazing DSP-enhanced selectivity. Although the relatively lame stock loopsticks designed by the Kchibo and Tecsun companies seriously limited MW sensitivity there was no shortage of fanatical hobbyists designing upgrade loopsticks in an effort to correct this deficiency. The 7.5” loopstick transplant boosted the MW sensitivity of the PL-380 model up to a much improved level, and it became the most popular modification in our Ultralight radio group.  But in 2011 another huge breakthrough was about to capture the fascination of our DXing niche group—Graham Maynard published his original Ferrite Sleeve article, and the innovative antenna’s sensitivity made our humble pockets radios perform like real transoceanic DXing contenders. This was very thrilling—but was there any possible way that the awesome selectivity from the Si4734 DSP chip and the awesome sensitivity provided by the FSL antenna could somehow be combined in a self-contained breakthrough portable, with lightweight portability as an added bonus?

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-2

The fact that an Si4734 DSP chip could successfully tune an external antenna was demonstrated by various experimenters (including me) in 2011—a hard-wired 3” Longwave FSL design worked quite well for me in early 2011, and although it was far too heavy to consider attachment to the PL-380 the validity of the hard-wired FSL concept was proven to my satisfaction (see photo at right). The challenge has always been to create a hard-wired FSL that would offer both high MW sensitivity and lightweight portability— a value tradeoff that made this project especially intriguing.

After testing various designs I finally settled on a 3” FSL composed of the lightweight Russian surplus 100mm x 20mm x 3mm ferrite bars. These bars provide a unique balance of high sensitivity and lightweight portability, and the cylindrical shape of the FSL apparently provides the fringe benefit of exceptional nulling capability. The PL-380’s Si4734 chip easily tunes the antenna for breakthrough MW sensitivity from 521-1701 kHz, and provides excellent 1 kHz DSP selectivity as well. The weight of the FSL-enhanced PL-380 is within reason to maintain the concept of easy portability, and its modest size may actually convince airport security agents that it is indeed a radio and antenna combination. Overall the project has been a very satisfying effort to combine the awesome capabilities of both the Si4734 DSP chip and the new FSL antenna– resulting in a breakthrough “travel portable” with astonishing MW-DXing performance.

Project Overview  

This modification procedure will convert the Tecsun PL-380 AM-LW-FM-SW portable from a modest-performing Medium Wave receiver into an exceptional one, with a significant enhancement of Longwave performance as well. The process involves some close-order soldering on a crowded PL-380 circuit board, and should only be attempted by those will good close up eyesight, steady hand coordination and some soldering experience. Certain component parts (such as the 100mm x 20mm x 3mm ferrite bars, the 2.25” Funnoodle inner cores and the orange plastic antenna frames) may be in short supply depending upon current demand, and it is recommended that all these collected prior to starting the project.

Since major portions of this project involve duplication of procedures contained in the PL-380 7.5” Loopstick Transplant article, reference is made to various steps and instructions in that article (posted at

http://www.mediafire.com/view/du3sr5cd9thqvau/7.5inch-LS-PL380.doc ). As such, hobbyists who have successfully completed the 7.5” loopstick transplant project on a PL-380 will find this procedure relatively simple, with only the 3” Bar FSL construction as a new challenge. The resulting FSL-enhanced PL-380 truly provides a quantum leap in MW-DXing performance over the stock model, but reasonable care is necessary to protect the modified portable from sudden drops or mechanical shocks. Completion of the finished radio should provide a great level of satisfaction and hobby enjoyment, especially during travel opportunities where external antennas are impractical or forbidden.

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-3

Construction Parts Required

A) Tecsun PL-380 AM-LW-FM-SW Receiver (available from many sources, including this eBay listing at $46.99 with free shipping to the USA)  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecsun-PL380-DSP-AM-FM-Shortwave-LW-PLL-Radio-Receiver-PL-380-/251783558999?hash=item3a9f783757:g:t0EAAOxylpNTTan7

B) 37 feet of 250/46 Litz wire  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Litz-wire-250-46-0-04-mm-for-crystal-radio-coil-Loop-antenna-100-/160804560511?hash=item2570b2de7f:m:m9fkDfLaAd59_UEmrp1po5w

C) 8 Russian surplus 100mm x 20mm x 3mm ferrite bars (availability currently uncertain– author has a limited supply. An eBay source may reappear for future orders, since many of these bars are presumably still in eastern Europe)

D) 4″ length of 2″ diameter Fun Noodle inner foam core

http://www.amazon.com/Aqua-World-223-Fun-Noodle/dp/B0017QABEQ/

E) Precut orange plastic antenna frame (cut from Ace hardware 48″ plastic level, with 5″ long bottom dimension and 4.5″ top dimension– cutting instructions to follow). NOTE: each Ace Hardware 48” level has enough material to make two FSL antenna frames.

F) Rite Aid 1″ wide waterproof tape (1 roll)

G) Scotch “Extreme” shipping tape (1 roll)

H) Tube of Duro Super Glue (or equivalent), .07 ounce

I) 6 inches of 1/16″ diameter shrink tubing

J) Two 18″ lengths of 125 lb. test plastic tie wraps

K) Two 16″ lengths of 75 lb. test plastic tie wraps

L) Oatey foam pack (4” wide)

M) Two 3/4″ x 1″ strips of 1″ I.D. rubber heater hose

Miscellaneous: Solder, 25w (low heat) soldering iron, hacksaw (or power miter saw), screwdriver set, sandpaper (optional)

PL-380 Preparation

Before voiding the warranty on your new PL-380, it’s a good idea to ensure that it has no existing problems which might require warranty service. (Ha!)

Install batteries in the radio and give it a test run on all four bands, checking the tuning encoder, clock, volume control, speaker, headphone jack, display functions and digital searching modes. Make sure that the radio is working properly in all functions before starting the modification procedure, since the eBay sellers are unlikely to show you any sympathy after you tear out the stock loopstick. It’s also a good idea to check out the Medium Wave weak signal reception with the PL-380 stock loopstick before starting the modification, to establish a benchmark of performance against which the new 3” FSL’s DXing performance will be compared.

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-4

STEP-BY-STEP CONSTRUCTION

1) Follow the detailed cutting procedures in steps 1-9 of the loopstick transplant article (using either a power miter saw or hacksaw) to prepare the FSL antenna mounting frame, HOWEVER please note that the top section length for this project is 4 ½” (114 mm), NOT 8” as in the loopstick transplant project. The finished precut frame should resemble the picture above, with the top section flat, and the bottom section back edge trimmed to allow full use of the radio’s whip antenna. The frame’s entire bottom section (including the glue surface) is identical in both the loopstick and FSL transplant projects.

2) Follow the detailed procedures in steps 17-22 of the loopstick transplant article to prepare the PL-380 cabinet for the FSL transplant procedure.
Click to enlarge
3) Refer to the photo above. Place the prepared PL-380 cabinet in the vertical position as shown, with a paper roll (or other item) to keep the cabinet in the vertical position. If necessary sand the edges (only) of the antenna frame’s glue surface to ensure that no cutting debris or rough edges will cause an uneven gluing surface. Use a clean, damp cloth or paper towel to remove all dust and debris from both the antenna frame and PL-380 glue surfaces, then wipe them thoroughly dry. Ensure that maximum light shines on the PL-380’s top glue surface (as shown in the photo below), then practice making multiple “dry runs” of placing the antenna frame directly centered on the PL-380’s front top cabinet surface, with its front edge lined up with the PL-380’s beveled front edge. You will only get one chance to place the frame accurately when the super glue is on the PL-380 surface, so make sure that you know exactly what to do! The antenna frame should sit completely flat against the PL-380 cabinet, and slide across it smoothly if such a test is made. If not, sand any rough edges on the antenna frame’s glue surface and repeat the cleaning procedure.<

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-64) Refer to the photo above. After ensuring that you are fully prepared for accurate placement of the antenna frame on the PL-380 cabinet, place a 4 1/2” x 3/16” bead of super glue (114 mm x 5 mm) on the PL-380’s front top cabinet surface, as shown in the photo. Refer to the photo on the top of the next page. Ensure that the front side of the antenna frame (as shown) is facing you, then place the antenna frame in a centered position flat against the PL-380 cabinet, with its front edge lining up with the front beveled edge of the cabinet, as shown in the photo. Press the antenna frame down firmly against the cabinet for about one minute, scraping away any excess glue from the front and back edges with a small, flat jeweler’s screwdriver. It is especially important to remove any excess glue from the back edge of the antenna frame in order to allow the PL-380’s back cabinet to close normally. After completion of this step place the PL-380 (with the attached antenna frame) in a secure area until the FSL antenna is constructed.Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-7

CONSTRUCTION OF FSL ANTENNA

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-8

5)   Refer to the photo above. Ensure that the end edges of the 4” Funnoodle inner foam core are perfectly straight before performing this step. Place the inner foam core flat on a table, standing on one of its edges as shown. Take the roll of 1” wide waterproof tape and wrap two turns tightly around the inner foam core as shown in the photo, with the adhesive side out. Ensure that the two turns are wound tight enough so that they will not slide up or down the inner foam core. Take the first 100mm ferrite bar and press it firmly against the waterproof tape with its short edge completely flat on the table, and long edges completely parallel to the edges of the inner foam core (as shown). It is important to place this first bar accurately, in order to start an accurate pattern for the set of 8 bars.

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-9

6)   Refer to the photo above. Press another of the 100mm ferrite bars against the waterproof tape in a position where it is perfectly flat on the table and perfectly parallel with the first bar, with 1/8” (3 mm) spacing between the bars. Continue to place the other 6 bars on the inner foam core in exactly the same way, ensuring that all 8 bars are flat against the table and parallel with each other, having 1/8” (3 mm) spacing between them. If necessary (after placing all 8 bars on the tape), even out the spacing by moving certain bars slightly so that the gaps between them are all equal. The set of 8 bars will be compressed in the next step to form an octagonal pattern.

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-10

7)  Refer to the photo above. Place a 75 lb. test plastic tie wrap around one edge of the set of 8 bars as shown, 1/2” (12 mm) from the ends of the bars. Slowly and carefully compress the set of 8 bars as shown, tightening up the slack in the plastic tie wrap gradually as you compress the set of bars. Continue this gradual process until the set of 8 bars forms an octagonal (stop sign) pattern, with the bars barely touching each other on their compressed edges.  At this point take up any remaining slack in the plastic tie wrap, and stop compressing the bars. Repeat this process on the other side of the ferrite bars with another 75 lb. test plastic tie wrap, ensuring that the bars form another octagonal pattern, with their compressed edges barely touching each other. Again take up the slack in the plastic tie wrap, and then use diagonal cutters to trim the excess ends of the plastic tie wraps.

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-11

8)   Refer to the photo above. Place the prepared set of 8 bars flat on the table on one of its ends, as shown. Take the roll of 1” waterproof tape and tightly wrap two turns of tape around the ferrite bars as shown, with the adhesive side out. Space these two wraps evenly as shown, ensuring that they are tight enough not to slide up and down the bars.

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-12

9)   Refer to the photo above. Take the Oatey 4” foam pack, remove the center staple and locate a 9” (23 cm) long length of this foam which is free of any holes or imperfections. At the beginning of this 9” (23 cm) long length of foam cut a perfectly straight line perpendicular to the edges of the foam. Press this straight edge of foam down tightly against the waterproof tape as shown, with the edges of the 4” Oatey form lining up with the edges of the bar assembly’s inner foam core. Wrap this Oatey foam tightly around the waterproof tape until the foam touches the plastic tie wrap clamps.

If necessary, re-wrap the foam tightly so that it is centered on the ferrite bar assembly.

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-1310)   Refer to the photo above. Pull the Oatey foam wrap tightly around the bar assembly, then cut a straight edge to mate evenly with the previously cut straight edge. Before pressing this edge down on the tape cut side notches in the foam where the tie wraps clamps are located, as shown. The press this foam edge tightly down on the tape, mating evenly with the previously cut foam edge. Ensure that there are no gaps or overlaps in the foam edges; if necessary, pull the foam wrap once again all around the bar assembly and cut a new straight edge that will mate evenly, with no gaps or overlaps. Finally, secure this newly cut foam edge with a 2 1/2” (64 mm) strip of waterproof tape, as shown.

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-14

11)   Refer to the photo above. Support the edges of the prepared bar assembly so that it will be raised off of the table. Wrap two turns of the 1” waterproof tape tightly around the center of the prepared bar assembly, adhesive side out (as shown). When wrapping the second turn, ensure that the inner zigzag edge of the waterproof tape mates evenly with the inner zigzag edge of the first turn of tape, with no overlap or gap.

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-15

12)   Refer to the photo above. Take your reel of 250/46 Litz wire and measure off 16” (41 cm) of wire from the end. Press this exact point down on the waterproof tape 1/8” (3 mm) from the left edge of the waterproof tape, as shown in the photo. While pressing down this Litz wire point while the wire is in a position parallel to the waterproof tape (as shown) pick up the bar assembly with one hand and the Litz wire reel with the other hand, pulling the Litz wire tightly around the circumference of the bar assembly in a straight, parallel manner to begin the first Litz wire turn. Ensure that this first turn stays 1/8” (3 mm) away from the left edge of the waterproof tape all around the bar assembly, then start the second turn directly adjacent to the first turn, ensuring that no gaps or crossovers occur while winding the turns. Carefully continue this process until 36 total turns have been wound around the bar assembly, which should leave the Litz wire coil in a centered position, similar to the photo below.  NOTE: This coil is designed to provide an inductance of 350 uH.

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-16

13)   Refer to the photo above. After 36 turns have been wound on the bar assembly, ensure that there is still a 16” (41 cm) length of loose Litz wire leading up to the first coil turn. Then place a strip of Scotch “Extreme” tape along the length of the bar assembly, with the lower edge of the tape along the point where the first Litz wire turn begins (as shown), and with the tie wrap clamps in back of the assembly. Press the tape down firmly to lock the coil into place. In the same manner, turn the bar assembly over and place another strip of “Extreme” tape along the bar assembly, with the lower edge of the tape along the point where the last Litz wire turn ends (where the wire leaves the coil), avoiding the tie wrap clamps. There should be about 2” (51 mm) of space between the two “Extreme” tape strips, and both loose Litz wire ends should be parallel as they come off of the coil. Press the second “Extreme” tape strip down firmly to lock the coil into place. Finally, measure off another 16” (41 cm) of loose Litz wire from the coil, cutting the Litz wire at that point.

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-17

14)   Refer to the photo above. Cut a 4” (102 mm) length of the 1/16” shrink tubing, and then cut a very short piece off of the ends of the Litz wires to ensure that these ends have the smallest and smoothest possible profile to be run through the shrink tubing. Run one end of the Litz wires through the shrink tubing until about 3 inches of wire extend from the tubing. Carefully insert the other end of the Litz wire through the shrink tubing, and use the procedure (and photo) in Step 30 of the Loopstick Transplant article to run the second Litz wire through the shrink tubing, as shown. The related photo for that procedure is included below.

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-18

 

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-19

15)  Place the previously prepared PL-380 and antenna frame assembly flat on the table, with a protective cloth to keep the front panel display from damage.

Take the prepared FSL antenna assembly and place it in the position shown, with the Litz wire shrink tubing running along the back side of the antenna frame and the lower edge of the FSL assembly next to the top of the antenna frame. Place the two 3/4” x 1” strips of rubber heater hose in the two positions shown, in between the antenna frame and the FSL antenna and also in between the coil and the FSL edges, with the longer rubber strip dimensions parallel to the FSL edges. Start the two 175 lb. test plastic tie wraps in the positions shown (down the center of the rubber spacer strips), ensuring that the rubber spacer strips remain between the FSL assembly and the antenna frame, and that the spacer strips are centered at the very bottom of the FSL assembly. Also ensure that the Litz wires are in the position shown, with no pinching or binding between the FSL assembly and antenna frame. Slowly and carefully tighten the first plastic tie wrap while ensuring that the rubber spacer strip remains in the proper position. Tighten this plastic tie wrap only enough to securely hold the FSL assembly, and do not tighten it to the point where the ferrite bars’ octagonal pattern begins to distort. In a similar manner, carefully tighten the other plastic tie wrap while ensuring that the rubber spacer strip remains in the centered position, in between the antenna frame and FSL assembly. Once again, tighten this tie wrap only enough to securely hold the FSL assembly, and not to the point where the ferrite bars’ octagonal pattern begins to distort. When this process is complete the large plastic tie wraps’ clamps should be in the position shown, lined up with each other and in a position to support the radio/FSL combination when the model is laying down flat, on a table. Cut off the excess tie wrap lengths.

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-20

16)   Refer to the photo above. Temporarily place the Litz wires down along the radio’s circuit board in the position shown. Locate the detailed circuit board antenna connection points “AN1” and “AN2” in the close up photo at the top of the next page. After locating these two circuit board connection points (with the Litz wires running in the position shown in the photo at left) place one of the Litz wires over the “AN1” circuit board point, and the other Litz wire over the “AN2” circuit board point. Then measure out about 1” (25 mm) extra

Litz wire past these two circuit board connection points, and after making sure that the Litz  wires are still in the approximate position shown in the photo at the beginning of this step, cut one (shorter) Litz wire 1” (25 mm) past the “AN2” circuit board point, and one (longer) Litz wire 1” (25 mm) past the “AN1” circuit board point.

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-21

17) Refer to the photo below. Temporarily place the Litz wires outside of the radio as shown, and install a 1 1/2” (38 mm) long section of shrink tubing over both Litz wires, and a 1” (25 mm) long section of shrink tubing over the longer Litz wire. Position both sections of shrink tubing as shown in the photo below.  Place some type of protective material under the Litz wire so that the soldering procedure (in the next step) will not damage your work surface.

NOTE: The proper procedure of tinning the ends of the Litz wires requires that all of the individual Litz wire strands be soldered together at the ends. This requires a clean, shiny solder connection all around the circumference of the Litz wire ends for at least 1/8” (3 mm). When preparing the ends of the Litz wires in the next step, ensure that the ends are tinned in this manner before continuing.

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-22

18)   Refer to the photo above. Carefully tin the ends of both Litz wires in the manner described above, working around the circumference of the Litz wire ends with a clean soldering iron for at least 1/4” (6 mm). After doing this, cut off the tinned section on both ends to a length of 1/8” (3 mm). When viewing the ends of the Litz wires after tinning, the entire 1/8” (3 mm) length should be bright and shiny all around its circumference, as shown in the photo at the top of the next page. The cut surface of the Litz wire (the circular face) should also be bright and shiny, with one solid surface of melted solder.

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-23

19)   Refer to the photo above. Take the prepared ends of the Litz wires and route them as shown in the photo above, with the 1 1/2” (38 mm) section of shrink tubing placed in the cabinet clamp as shown, and the end of the 4” (102  mm) section of shrink tubing (coming from the FSL coil) also positioned as shown (where it will be run through the empty wrist strap hole, in the back cabinet side panel). Before placing the 1 1/2” (38 mm) long section of shrink tubing in the cabinet clamp refer to the picture at the top of the next page, and ensure that there will be sufficient slack in the 4” (102 mm) shrink tubing to be run from the FSL coil to the wrist strap hole (3/8” or 9 mm down from the top of the cabinet) without binding.

Ensure that the circuit board points “AN1” and “AN2” still have a small amount of melted solder on them (after removal of the PL-380 stock loopstick, as described in the Loopstick transplant article). Also ensure that there is no excessive length in either of the Litz wires, since these both must be positioned as shown (if necessary, cut one or both to the proper length, and re-tin them as described in the previous step). Place the end of the shorter Litz wire (going to the AN2 circuit board point) down in a horizontal position as shown, and using a MINIMUM of heat (and no additional solder), solder the pre-tinned Litz wire end to the AN2 circuit board point while the wire is in a horizontal position. Carefully observe the connection to ensure that there are no solder bridges to the adjacent circuit board components. After ensuring this, temporarily move the 1” (25 mm) section of shrink tubing away from the end of the longer Litz wire, and following the detailed procedure described for the AN2 connection above, carefully solder the end of the longer Litz wire to the AN1 circuit board point in a horizontal position as shown, using a MINIMUM of heat (and no additional solder). Once again ensure that there are no solder bridges to adjacent components, and that the wire is in a horizontal position, as shown. Then slide the 1” section of shrink tubing down over the Litz wire to the position shown in the photo.

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-24

20)   Refer to the photo above. After ensuring that your Litz wire connections and the wires’ positions resemble those in the previous photo, take the PL-380’s back cabinet section and carefully bring it close to the radio, as shown in the photo. Ensure that the whip antenna’s lead-in wire is not pinched, and also ensure that the 4” (102 mm) section of shrink tubing is routed is a position close to the empty wrist strap hole in the back cabinet, as shown. As a first step, carefully mate the radio’s back cabinet to the radio’s right side (the one opposite the wrist strap hole) while continuing to guide the shrink tubing through the wrist strap hole. Finally, center the shrink tubing in the wrist strap hole while mating the remaining (left) side of the cabinets together. Ensure that the shrink tubing is not pinched or extremely tight as it is clamped down in this hole. While holding the two cabinet sides together move the whip antenna up and away from the cabinet screw hole underneath, and insert the first cabinet screw, tightening it temporarily to keep the shrink tubing in position. Then insert and tighten the left upper and left lower cabinet screws thoroughly, while snapping the right lower cabinet sections together. Finally, after ensuring that the Litz wires’ shrink tubing is still in the center of the wrist strap hole without any binding or excessive stress, tighten the final cabinet screw near the whip antenna base. Reinstall the two small battery compartment screws and reinsert batteries.

INITIAL TESTING   If you are not familiar with the PL-380, make sure that you study the owner’s manual to find the location of basic operating controls. It is important to initially test the radio in a location free of computer noise or other RF pollution—preferably in an outdoor location where its capabilities can be appreciated. Refer to the photo on the next page. Turn on the radio and select the Medium Wave band (530-1700 kHz in North America) and set the AM bandwidth control to the most selective (1 kHz) position (NOTE: This position also provides maximum MW and LW sensitivity for the model, although the higher audio frequencies are limited somewhat by the sharp DSP filtering). If your FSL antenna transplant is working properly you should notice an EXCEPTIONAL increase in the signal strength of weak fringe stations relative to the stock PL-380 model, and a very significant increase in fringe station strength relative to a 7.5” loopstick PL-380 model. Check fringe station strength across the band, and you should notice MW reception far superior to that of any stock portable in your collection. If you are not receiving any MW signals the problem is usually easy to trace—either one of the PL-380 circuit board connections is shorted to adjacent components because of too much solder, or the physical stress on the Litz wires (because they were not soldered in a horizontal position) has caused the circuit board connections to break off and separate from the board. In the first case you can attempt to remove excess solder by turning the circuit board upside down and melting the excess solder onto the tip of your soldering iron (or using a “solder sucker” in a normal position), but in the second case you will probably need a technician to restore proper function to your radio. Fortunately both of these problems are rare, and can be entirely avoided by carefully following the instructions in Steps 18 and 19.

Tecsun-PL-380-FSL-25

OPERATION

The triple advantage of superior FSL sensitivity, powerful audio amplification and sharp DSP selectivity provide this breakthrough model with exceptional weak-signal performance for a portable—to the extent that after a few DXing sessions the operator may have the impression that the realm of science fiction has been approached. The cylindrical shape of the FSL antenna seems to provide a bonus capability of unusual nulling function as well, so that multiple weak signals can be received adjacent to (or on the same frequencies as) local pests.

During DXing sessions it is a good idea to support both the PL-380 and FSL antenna frame in the same hand (as shown in the photo above), and also to avoid sudden mechanical stress or bumps to the antenna frame. When constructed according to this article the glue bond between the antenna frame and PL-380 is sufficient for routine operations, but the DXer should exercise care to avoid bumps, drops or other stress. The FSL antenna itself is fairly rugged, as constructed.

Refer to the photo on the previous page. The PL-380 has many digital search functions and advanced capabilities for a pocket radio, but some of the functions of particular interest to the transoceanic DXer are described here.  The “AM Bandwidth” switch allows you to choose different levels of DSP filtering to limit splatter from domestic pests, and is usually left in the 1 kHz position for the narrowest filtering while chasing transoceanic DX (although this position does cut off some of the high frequency audio from the desired DX station). The 9/10 kHz switch allows you to change the tuning steps of the radio from the North American (10 kHz) band system to those of the European/ African/ Asian/ Pacific band system (9 kHz), depending upon your preferred DX targets. The MW / LW switch allows you to switch over to Longwave DXing—and you will be pleasantly surprised to discover that your newly installed 3” Bar FSL antenna is FAR more sensitive on the Longwave band than the stock PL-380 loopstick. Finally, the Display switch offers you multiple options while chasing transoceanic DX—you can have a 24 hour clock display,  a display of the alarm time set in the radio, a constantly changing readout of DX signal strength and S/N ratio, or a temperature display (in either Celsius or Fahrenheit).

Because the antenna frame has been trimmed to allow full operation of the PL-380’s whip antenna to receive SW and FM signals, it’s possible to check the Shortwave parallels of Medium Wave DX stations (and switch back and forth) within a couple of seconds. In general, this “science fiction” PL-380 model’s sensitivity and selectivity will allow you to experience the most exciting AM-DXing fun that a portable can offer—and do so at an unbeatable price.

This hard-wired FSL-enhanced PL-380 model is the first in a series of portables designed to be the ultimate “travel radios,” with DXing potential superior to any stock design. It has been a great thrill to design, construct and introduce this model, which is pretty fanatical in both its appearance and DXing capabilities. My hope is that its function will inspire those who build and use it, and help them share my impression that the MW-DXing hobby has a very innovative and exciting future!

73 and Good DX,

Gary DeBock


Gary, I can only imagine the time and patience it took to document this procedure. Once again, thank you so much for doing so! I have a Tecsun PL-380 and I will–some day–make this “science fiction” mod! 

 

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The Tecsun S-8800: A new receiver in the works

Tecsun-BCL3000-001

SWLing Post contributor, OWL, writes:

It seems that Tecsun has a new large portable in line.

Someone posted a photo of a new Tecsun product catalogue which shows a new model S8800.

The Tecsun BCL-3000 for comparison.

The Tecsun BCL-3000 for comparison.

Apparently it uses the housing of BCL3000 [see above] and is multiple conversion (so a PL880 inside?), DSP based with separate LSB/USB and 10Hz minimum tuning step, and comes with a remote control (for direct frequency input?). Two 18650 batteries are used.

Tecsun-S8800-Catalog-2

Photo source: http://bbs.tecsun.com.cn/ via OWL. Click to enlarge.

Tecsun-S8800-Catalog

Photo source: http://bbs.tecsun.com.cn/ via OWL. Click to enlarge.

[Here’s a] link to the post in Tecsun’s web forum:

http://bbs.tecsun.com.cn/0002.asp?open=730351

Many thanks for sharing this find, OWL! This is a very curious development from Tecsun.

I can imagine why Tecsun is re-using the BCL-3000 (a.k.a. Grundig S350DL) body–not only is it roomy inside, but it’s proven to be a popular large portable form factor over the years. Of course, since this is an existing chassis design, design/development costs will be minimal.  If Tecsun is including a remote, I’m sure OWL is correct: it’ll aid with direct frequency entry. The S-8800 will be the first portable shortwave radio with remote control I’ve seen in many years.

If audio is anything like its predecessors, I would expect rich fidelity from the built-in speaker. In terms of performance, though? This is a completely different receiver than the single-conversion BCL-3000, so only time will tell.

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Degen refreshes shortwave product line

Degen-DE221-001

Many thanks to SWLing Post reader, Paul, who commented with a link to the new Degen DE221 “ultralight” radio: http://ebay.to/1fKWZ2m

Paul’s link lead to the discovery of several new Degen models, in fact. Many of the new models have the same form factor–and a slightly different model number–from their predecessors.

Degen DE221 (updated from Degen 321)

Degen-DE221-001

Degen DE22

Degen-DE22

Degen DE23

Degen-DE23

Degen DE26

Degen-DE26

Degen DE27

Degen-DE27

Degen DE36 (updated from Degen DE32)

Degen-DE36

There may be even more 2015 Degen models than those I listed here and, in fact, they could’ve been on the market for a while.

I’ve already purchased the Degen DE221 for review since its predecessor, the DE321, was an acceptable radio for the $20 price tag. The DE321’s analog dial made for very vague tuning, however, so I’m curious if the DE221’s new digital display will be a worthy improvement. At this point, I don’t plan to review any of the other models above.

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In the field with the Panasonic RF-2200

Panasonic-RF2200-MtMitchell

I’ve had the Panasonic RF-2200 for just one week, but I’ve thoroughly enjoyed getting to know this classic solid-state portable. Without a doubt I’ve been very pleased with the RF-2200, and I only have good things to say about the eBay seller, volodymyry123 from whom I bought it. Eventually I’ll take the time to calibrate the analog dial, which is about 100 kHz off-frequency.  (I’m obviously in no rush, but if readers with these rigs have suggestions for doing so, feel free to comment.)

The RF-2200 is surely one of the largest, heaviest portables in my collection…still, it begs to be taken outdoors!

Last week, I drove with some friends to the highest point in eastern North America, Mount Mitchell State Park. As I left for our drive, picnic supplies and backpacks in tow, I took a glance at the RF-2200 in my office–and couldn’t resist taking it along.

During our mountain picnic, I turned the RF-2200 on; immediately I heard Radio Exterior de España‘s interval signal on 17,715 kHz. It was loud and clear, at times pegging S9 on the signal meter.

Panasonic-RF2200-MtMitchell-2

I also tuned to the medium wave band and was instantly amazed by all of the signals it drew in. I was able to hear one of my favorites, WAIZ, on 630 kHz–the signal was very stable and sounded local, although the transmitter was easily 60 miles away.

In general, medium wave performance on the RF-2200 has been nothing short of incredible. But this shouldn’t come as much of a surprise. Indeed, just prior to purchasing the RF-2200, I consulted my buddy, Jeff McMahon (the fellow behind The Herculodge); here’s what he says about the ‘2200:

“I borrowed my friends’ RF-2200 for a month in 2008 and I loved it. It picked up stations effortlessly and had a magisterial quality about it, especially the AM sound. It reminded me of why I fell in love with radios.”

Panasonic-RF2200-MtMitchell-3But why is it that when I look at the RF-2200, I feel like I should be taking it to the field? Perhaps it’s the staunch, beefy look of the chassis, or the controls that could easily be worked even with winter gloves? Or perhaps it’s that woven carry strap?

Or perhaps the RF-2200 offers something I miss in the age of compact portables with digital displays: a radio with presence, one that lends itself to pure listening discovery. The RF-2200 demands your attention, and does so with a clear, deep voice…

Yep, the RF-2200 is a true field companion.  But don’t take my word for it:  find one, take it along, and see–or rather, hear–for yourself.

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Portables, SDRs, dongles, kits, and a spy radio: our virtual radio challenge responses

TristanDaCuna-001

Two weeks ago, I posted a virtual challenge for SWLing Post readers:  I asked you to imagine you were placed on a one-year research assignment on one of the world’s most remote inhabited islands, namely, Tristan Da Cunha, in the South Atlantic.

Your goal was to assemble the best shortwave listening set-up possible for your virtual budget of $200 US. You were tasked to track down a radio kit that would keep you in touch with the world, and potentially afford you some very unique DX. [If you haven’t read the full virtual radio challenge, including all of the limitations you might face, I encourage you to check out this post before continuing.]

Your Reader Responses

And, wow, what great responses–!  First, I want to thank all who participated in this challenge. No two responses were identical.  Some truly surprised me…I must say, I sincerely hope you enjoyed this exercise as much as I enjoyed reading what you’ve sent to the SWLing Post!  

Below you will find ten responses from readers, representing remarkable diversity in radio set-ups. Note that my comments follow; they are italicized and in bold.

Now, with no further ado…I welcome you to radio DX on Tristan de Cunha!


from Frank Holden

TecsunPL-660First up, Frank Holden, who submitted his entry at 3:00 AM–prior to leaving on a 6:40 AM flight. Obviously, travel was on this Post reader’s mind.

Frank writes:

Based on both my own experience and recent swling.com research I would choose a:

(Photo courtesy of http://www.perite.com/)

Squidpole Antenna (Photo courtesy of http://www.perite.com/)

Total is $210 Australian, so you will get change out of $200 US.

Some notes:

  • Feed antenna up inside the Squidpole and tape at the top…. The rubber ‘bobble’ is removeable.
  • Maybe run a short length of coax from radio to base of Squidpole.
  • Make sure the Squidpole is well stayed. My experience in VP8land and Tierra del Fuego is that the constant flexing in high winds will lead to squid pole failure. Mine were secured to the taffrail on my boat… i.e. at the base and 50cm up from base…. Failed at the 50 cm point. I have also had a 5 metre high quality (marine grade) alloy whip fail in the same manner.
  • Utilise rest of baggage allowance with warm clothes, rum (power outages… for use during), etc.

Thanks, Frank! I love the idea of the Squidpole as it can give you a little height when trees are absent. I have used a similar telescoping pole for Ham Radio QRP operations: a Jackite pole. I’ve broken the tip section twice already due to my own clumsiness–fortunately, the tip can be purchased separately. As you suggest, I bet the winds on Tristan Da Cunha would give the Squidpole a run for its money!


from AB3RU

The Ham It Up v1.2 - NooElec RF Upconverter  converts your RTL-SDR dongle into an HF receiver.

The Ham It Up v1.2 – NooElec RF Upconverter converts your RTL-SDR dongle into an HF receiver.

AB3RU writes:

I propose using my current setup, since a laptop is a freebie here. I use the following in my setup:

1) RTL-SDR dongle for the laptop ($15)
2) Ham it up upconverter ($40)
3) AlphaDelta SWL sloper, MFJ 1020B (eBay, got ‘em for $102)

That’s $157. That leaves $43 for a 25? length of coax and two MCX adapters. Coax run is $15 (at $0.39/ft for RG-8X.) I forgot how much the adapters were, but less than the $28 left over after buying the coax run.

Downside? I have no pole to support this, and houses on the island are only one story structures. I’ll have to attach the high end of the sloper to the peak of the home where I’m staying, and I’m sure that height is less than the 25? recommended by AlphaDelta. In addition, I’ll have to plant a stake at the lower end of the sloper to keep that end the recommended 8? above ground. I also made no provision for extra power if a power outage exceeded the amount of juice in my laptop battery.

If push came to shove, I would drop the MFJ 1020B for an extra $50 to buy supports or an extra battery.

Thanks, AB3RU! I’m willing to bet that you might find something on the island to support one end of your sloping antenna. It might be a challenge to meet the 25′ recommended height, as you stated. Still, this is an innovative and quite portable option!


from Tudor

Sony-ICF-SW7600GR“Tudor” comments:

Here are my choices:

  • A 50-100m wire to be used as an antenna for SW and MW. I imagine I’ll be able to catch a few MW stations from South America or Africa. As for choosing a radio…
  • I’ll need a good radio which allows using an external antenna not only for SW (all of them do) but also for MW (few of them do). I think there is only one radio which fits this requirement within the budget: the Sony ICF-SW7600GR, available on Amazon.com at prices around $140. My other choice would be a Sangean ATS-909X which works very well with external antennas, but it’s more expensive.
  • I’ll also need two packs of 4 AA rechargeable batteries and a charger.

Thanks, Tudor! I believe your choice of the Sony ICF-SW7600GR is a very good one, as the Sony is a solid performer. It would be a challenge to find a new Sangean ATS-909X within your $200 budget–you would need to track down a used one, most likely. With the PL-660 in tow, you would then have a full $60 to purchase batteries, charger, and your antenna wire. Very workable!


from KK6AYC

KK6AYC suggests using the MFJ Model MFJ-8100:

MFJ-Model-MFJ-8100

http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-8100W

It is through hole soldered so replacing parts is easy. Bring a bag of spare parts and a couple batteries. Get two headphones so that you and a friend can listen at the same time.

Thanks, KK6AYC! At $110 US, you would certainly have enough budget for spare parts, batteries, and antenna wire. While a regen receiver may not be for everyone, these do provide excellent sensitivity once you pass this rig’s learning curve for tuning. If the winds blow your external antenna around, you might have to ride that regen control! Great alternative to the typical portable–!


from John Treager

Next, John Treager, who writes:

Neat thought experiment! I’ve recently got back into SW listening after years away. I’ve been hitting your sites for two or three months and your weak station comparison really grabbed my attention but this one has lit the fire again.

[…]I’m a contract engineer who lives away from my primary residence most of the time so this challenge kind of strikes a chord. And, as I’m getting back into SWL, you’ve given me a reason to research (something engineers love to do!).

TecsunPL-660-SilverBased on the weak station article and discussion, I like what I’ve seen in the Tecsun PL-660 (although I don’t own it yet). […]Found in silver on eBay for $100.99 from kaito-electronics-inc. Seriously, what’s the fascination with black? Black is $20 more…

If I’m renting a room with a family on the island, headphones are a must. I’m cheap and traveling light so let’s go with Sony MDRZX100 headphones. I’ve used them for quite a while and like them. I find them comfortable for at least a couple of hours. Currently $15.09 on Amazon.

I enjoy the challenge of simplicity so, as far as an antenna goes, I would choose a simple long wire. Either a reel or one I build, $10-15. I get as much enjoyment from fussing with antennas as I do from turning knobs and dials. If my simple wire antenna doesn’t work when I get on location, then investigating and tinkering with antenna design and construction will fill the hours!

wrth-2014By the rules of the challenge, power is available but somewhat unreliable it sounds like. To meet that, I’m going with rechargeable batteries and enough to last for a while. AmazonBasics AA NiMH Rechargeable batteries (16 pack, 2000 mAh). Not the newest version, but should suffice for one year and 16 batteries should be enough for extended periods of no power. And, this may be a bit of a cheat, but I use AA batteries for everything, so I already have a charger!
Next, some sort of reference. I usually use either my laptop or a phone/tablet for frequencies/times from various sources, but given that there is no internet access in the residence and power may be occasionally spotty, let’s go with the World Radio/TV Handbook as a backup (I do miss Passport to World Band Radio!). I found WRTH on eBay (new, 2014 edition) for $27.24.

I assume I will have notebooks and pens for other reasons, so not included in the total.

So, all told…

Total: $182.67

With the remaining difference, I may get a Kaito KA321, which I have found to be a great deal of fun. […]Being a budget DXer, and given the performance of this little radio, I would almost have to have one along. I would love to see what it did in the South Atlantic!

Thanks, John! That should be enough AA batteries to keep you going well over a week with no power. Packing a WRTH makes a lot of sense. Via the island’s library Internet–however variable–you could download WRTH updates, as well.


from London Shortwave

The Global AT-2000 (Photo: RadioPics.com)

The Global AT-2000 (Photo: RadioPics.com)

London Shortwave sent his suggestion in by tweet–a simple, proven combo: 

Thanks, London Shortwave!  While the Global AT-2000 is a little difficult to find these days, London Shortwave has had excellent success with this antenna coupler. There should be enough room in his budget for rechargeable batteries, as well.  


from Princehifi

“Princehifi” comments:

If a laptop was coming along, I would have to use an SDR.

AFEDRI_SDR-USB-HS_640

I would get the Afedri SDR USB-only model [see AFEDRI SDR-USB-HS above] for $159 (board only, I’d have to mount it in a sardine can). I would then use the remaining $41 for a cheap used antenna tuner and a random wire for an antenna. I think this kit would make for an excellent listening post.

Backup power would be a concern with the outages, so I am contemplating a 6-volt battery backup power system to power my Phillips 4-port USB hub (6 volt DC in requirement). From there the USB-hub will power/charge a Dell Venue 8 Pro tablet (the laptop), the Afedri SDR and maybe a USB-powered speaker? Would have to test out this backup power scheme before boarding the boat!

I think I could do all of the above for $250 including the backup power system. Although it would likely push $300 when wires, cables etc are all in (does not include the tablet/laptop).

Thanks, Princehifi! So you’re a little over the $200 budget with all of the accessories, but if you already have a laptop and tablet, I think you could tweak your set-up to meet the budget goal. I did not realize that there was a USB only version of the Afedri SDR–I might have to get one of those myself!


from Rob

TecsunPL-660-SilverRob comments:

Here’s my list. Where can’t get it locally and I don’t have a firm shipping cost, I’ve estimated it as an additional 20%. Stuff I can get locally (Radio Shack, etc.) I haven’t added any shipping or sales tax.

  • Tecsun PL660 (eBay/Anon Co): $85 + $16 shipping = $101
  • 100′ roll of 22 gauge stranded copper wire (Amazon): $9.41 + 20% = $11 (good long random wire)
  • 25′ RG58 (Universal Radio price $0.25/ft): $6 + 20% = $7 (use the coax to get wire antenna out and away from the house; wrap it on an old jar (free!) to make an ugly balun to keep household noise from creeping up the outside of the shield)
  • 1/8″ phono plugs for antenna port (Radio Shack): $3.50
  • Koss Earbuds (Radio Shack): $5 (these really cut down on battery drain and make for a better house guest)
  • Eneloop charger & 4xAA batt combo (Battery Junction): $16 + 20% = $19.20 (the 660 comes with one set of AA’s, this gives another and an away-from-radio charger to cut down on noise)

TecsunAN200OK, that totals to $147 for the basics. Now I want to add two more things:

(That’s right, a spare radio. Because middle of nowhere.)

Grand total: $192

Now if I’m allowed to scrounge in the parts bin for stuff like 22 gauge antenna wire, RG58, and earbuds, there might be enough left over for a SECOND spare radio and 4 more Eneloops!

Thanks, Rob–you have a plan, indeed! Well thought through! I, too, would be very curious what sort of medium wave DX I could hear in the South Atlantic, especially since you know there would be no local blow-torch stations around. I have the Grundig version of the Tecsun AN200 and find it an essential antenna for portable MW DXing.


from Michael C. Fortner

ECSS-PL-660Michael C. Fortner’s list includes:

Radio: Tecsun PL-600 (I have one and am comfortable with it’s operation) – $43.35

Antenna: 500′ spool red 18 gauge wire (you can’t have too much wire in case of wind damage, animals, people, etc.) – $29.07

2 two packs of 1/8 mono phone jacks (again, backups are good) – $4.49 x 2 = $8.98

AmazonBasicsBatteriesBox-001Batteries: 16 AA NiMH batteries – $25.86

Charger: Solar battery charger (backup to mains power that charges batteries in radio): $19.99

Headphones: Koss KSC-75 headphones x2 (good dynamic range for the price and I have two pair that I use): $14.82 x 2 = $29.64

Grand total: $156.89 (all qualify for free shipping)

I’d guess I would save the rest for repair costs in case the radio acts up. Of course, I’d take the one I already have as a spare. When in remote locations, backups are essential so I probably bought more than most people think I need. And as far as the battery charger, rapid chargers are bad for most NiMH batteries so I went with a slower charger. And don’t forget that the Tecsun can charge the batteries in the radio when not in use.

Thanks, Michael! You are erring on the side of having extra batteries and more than enough wire for antennas; there’s no way you’ll run out in your one-year stay. On Tristan, I know that locals often trade supplies: those extra batteries may turn into an antenna support!    


from Kenny B

 OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAKenny B writes:

I love your site, I’m there everyday and almost forgot to enter so here it is:

1. Kaito 1102, I have had good luck with it and it has ssb, second choice would be a Tecsun PL-380, I really love this radio and it’s a great little dxing machine but no ssb.
The Kaito is 64.95 on Amazon, free shipping.

The Sundance Solar DIY battery charger

The Sundance Solar DIY battery charger

2. A Sundance Solar- build it yourself battery charger for AA and AAAs: $40.00 plus 9.99 shipping

3. Scotts Electronics 384pf air variable capacitor, $13.95 plus $4.95 shipping, this if for my shortwave magnetic loop I will build, I’m pretty sure I can procure the wood for crossbeams or something to make a loop can be had on the island.

4. 6ft RG-58, Wal-Mart, $4.95

5. 50ft speaker wire, Home Depot, split it gives me 100ft, can also be used to make a dipole or longwire, $9.99

6. Sanyo Eneloop rechargeable batteriess, AA, 3rd generation, 2000mah, 8 pack $26.40, Amazon, free shipping

7. Travelproducts.com, 1600 watt voltage converter, 19.99, free shipping

8. Radio Shack 1/8th inch miniplug for end of coax, $4.00

Wow! Thanks, Kenny B! Other than the KA1102, your complete kit is DIY–I like it! You could build the battery charger and antenna prior to leaving. 


from Anil

Anil writes:

1. Receiver: Wandel & Goltermann FE-8 Spy Radio Receiver (US$ 120 at a Hamfest)

Wandel_And_Goltermann_FE-8

Wandel & Goltermann FE-8 Spy Radio Receiver from the cold war (mine was manufactured in 1963. I bought it at a Hamfest in Sweden a month ago for the equivalent of US$ 120.[…]

For ruggedness there is nothing else like it. It is completely sealed and constructed from a single piece of die-cast machined aluminium and stainless steel. Just the thing for wet and rainy Atlantic islands! Covers 2.5 – 24 MHz and only needs 6 Volts at 8mA. A pack of twelve AAs will fit in my pocket and last at least a year with about three hours of listening every day. No adapter, no charger. The razor sharp 3.1 kHz Collins Mechanical Filter is not ideal for music but hard to beat for general news and SSB utility listening. Like the famous Collins R390 it uses a mechanical “digital” dial accurate to 1 kHz which also glows in the dark. […]It is smaller that a Tecsun 660 though it weighs a lot more. More about this radio here http://www.cryptomuseum.com/spy/sp15/fe8.htm

2. Antenna & Earth (US$ 15 in any electrical store)

Random length PVC insulated wires with a banana plugs- total 50 meters. The radio has a hi-impedance input and is sensitive enough to do a great job with just 20 m of wire. The rest is spare.

3. Headphones (US$ 25 on eBay)

Lightweight Telex Aviation Headset with 1500 Ohms impedance can be worn for long periods with no fatigue. The audio response is tailored for voice.

WandelAndGoltermann-FE-8-Front

4. The latest  WRTH Handbook (US$ 30 online)

I’m all set for the trip now with $10 to spend on a supply of chewing gum. I know that this radio setup can easily deal with whatever is thrown at it… the question is if I can!

Thanks, Anil!  Wow…I never saw that spy radio coming! It does look like an ideal radio for prolonged use and for pretty much any environmental conditions. I hope you realize that I will be bugging you (okay, pun intended!) to provide us with a few broadcast recordings from the FE-8. It’s certainly got my interest piqued!


Now, that was fun! Thank you all…

I know this sort of challenge may not appeal to everyone, but I really enjoy it. This sort of exercise forces you (though safely) outside the comfort-zone of a home radio set-up. Your responses are truly innovative. I only wish the Post could actually send our participants to Tristan de Cunha to try their set-ups out first-hand! I, for one, would love to come along…

Thanks, again, for your participation! If your response wasn’t included above, or I didn’t respond to you directly, please let me know: it’s possible I skipped over yours by mistake as there were quite a few responses to collate, and my email is managed by a rather discriminating SPAM filter.

Meanwhile, if you think of an alternative set-up–or would like to add your own to this post–please comment below!

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